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400 trailblazer smoking badly

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  #11  
Old 11-19-2013, 12:42 AM
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Not likely on the cylinder sleeve as the cylinders usually are super heated and the sleeves pressed in. A simple look at the sleeve ports and alignment with the cylinder can eliminate this.
 
  #12  
Old 11-19-2013, 07:05 PM
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I figured they were fairly secure, I was just trying to cover every possible option. I got the third cover off and there's definitely been some water/oil mix blending around in there, creamy white. Just to be certain I'm on the same page as you, the seal you were talking about is the one behind the c/b drive gear on the crankshaft correct? I did notice before I started all of this tear down that it was very difficult to start until I took the airbox off and hand choked it. And not even close to immediate with doing that. I guess I should have mentioned that in the beginning but it didn't seem pertinent until you started talking about crank seals. Of course both the water pump and 3rd cover gaskets tore and stuck to both sides here and there, so both will need to be replaced. Is there any way to remove the seal without destroying it so it can be inspected? or is there no sense in this? I've also looked at everything I can see and there are no cracks or leaks or burnt spots in any of the metal parts or the gaskets either. Does it sound like that inner seal?
 
  #13  
Old 11-20-2013, 04:00 AM
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Just replace this seal and while you're at it pull the drive clutch and replace the other one along with the w/p seals and bearing. Most people forget about crank seals when ever they do top ends,etc on 2 strokes and don't realize how important they are to an engine running right. An engine can have a new piston and rings,gaskets,but if one seal is leaking it'll run like crap,some hard to start and idle will be erratic and in worst cases they wont start at all. Has to have a tight crankcase for the fuel,air and oil mixture to atomize properly and shoot back up the transfer ports into the combustion chamber to ignite.
 
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:50 AM
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Will do. I was also one of the"most folks" as far as the crank seals go. But I guess either way it couldn't hurt to freshen up all the seals in the bottom end... thanks again OPT!! I'll order tonight and report back when I get them all in.
 
  #15  
Old 11-28-2013, 10:10 PM
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well I got it all put back together late last night and finally got to start it and take it for a short ride after burping the coolant system. I got to the end of the road and looked back and I could see the other end again!! I have no idea what part I replaced that fixed it, but I would assume it was either the water pump seals and/or the water pump gasket. There were some irregularities between the two parts of the w/p gasket that tore when i removed the third case. But either way it's back up and running. I used this opportunity to advance my timing slightly to put the upgrades I got from Rick Ritter a while back to work, and all I can say is WOW. Thanks again OPT! It sure is great having you around!
 
  #16  
Old 11-29-2013, 08:56 AM
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Probably a combination of all new parts! Glad you got it running.
 
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