Please help OPT!
#22
So for the price of a belt locally here i was able to buy new belt and rear bearing with shipping and it is still cheaper! thanks for the link. I am all for supporting local business but sometimes the savings just speak for themselves.
#23
Hey Kaboom.......don't worry about not buying local. I'm the same way, I would rather buy and support local ,but I need some support back! They choose to charge more because they can, the internet opens up a competitive market.....good for the consumer!
I've used cycle parts quite a few times. Great prices unless you order something too big or heavy. Take advantage of the shipping prices on a dollar amount too. You may be able to get a few other things for the same shipping price!
Kevin
I've used cycle parts quite a few times. Great prices unless you order something too big or heavy. Take advantage of the shipping prices on a dollar amount too. You may be able to get a few other things for the same shipping price!

Kevin
#24
Thanks Kev. Really happy with the prices.
So what do you think about the belt marks on my secondary from such a short drive down the driveway when i was testing after it being spotless? I would expect slipping on the primary with my setup but not the secondary? Could this happen if there was not enough preload or should i change to the spring setting it was 1-2?
So what do you think about the belt marks on my secondary from such a short drive down the driveway when i was testing after it being spotless? I would expect slipping on the primary with my setup but not the secondary? Could this happen if there was not enough preload or should i change to the spring setting it was 1-2?
#25
Stock setting is 2-2. Also check center to center on front and rear clutch bolts. Should be 10" If you don't have a manual check out chapter 8 on clutches in this one.http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...0%20-%20SM.pdf
#26
Thanks. I did have it on 2-2 when i got the rubbing marks but that was with that ebs belt. Just so i can understand better, because i do have an aftermarket primary(comet) and the bike came with larger tires and secondary was set to 1-2, This would mean it was optimized for that setup. It also had a larger jet in carb which i put back to stock. If i am trying to get as close to stock as i can on primary, is that possible without changing weights and springs? Or is it even necessary?
#27
One thing that has been in my head is if i busted the woodruff key on flywheel which could lead to timing issues, correct? Is it possible to shear that key and have flywheel move slightly? All my problems can be traced back to one incident i remember. I had my bike stored outside in the cold in one of those temp shelters. I started the bike, let it run, then tried to reverse but felt resistance. I think tires were froze in ground a bit. I gave it a snap and it came loose. At that time there was a metal snapping noise but i cant for the life of me determine where it came from. Since then i replaced cam and exhaust rocker and every other possible repair minus Tranny. I am so hoping this new belt and clenaed clutches and verified timing fixes my issue.
#28
I'd leave it at 2-2 if you're trying for stock mode.How it operates depends on the Comet clutch. 2-2 set up on driven clutch is stronger spring tension,rpms increase during up shift, has a quicker down shift.Normal setting that suits most people. 1-2 is softer,slower down shift,harder up shift. Try it with the new belt and see how it does. You can't go by what the old wrong belt was doing.Again you have a mix of two clutches. You have to adjust it to suit you. If it doesn't,then it's either doing something with the Comet as far as spring,weights or just finding a stock drive clutch.
#29
One thing that has been in my head is if i busted the woodruff key on flywheel which could lead to timing issues, correct? Is it possible to shear that key and have flywheel move slightly? All my problems can be traced back to one incident i remember. I had my bike stored outside in the cold in one of those temp shelters. I started the bike, let it run, then tried to reverse but felt resistance. I think tires were froze in ground a bit. I gave it a snap and it came loose. At that time there was a metal snapping noise but i cant for the life of me determine where it came from. Since then i replaced cam and exhaust rocker and every other possible repair minus Tranny. I am so hoping this new belt and clenaed clutches and verified timing fixes my issue.
#30
I don't know what would cause the belt scuff marks on your secondary so quickly. Two things come to mind though...... The belt is very worn and dirty or something is binding in your drive train and the belt is straining to turn the secondary because of it. When I low gear, the torque is higher so you can drive normally. In high gear, not so much torque going slow. Just a guess....I'm no atv mechanic by any means! 
I'm sure you've already checked, but can you turn the secondary fairly easily with the rear wheels off the ground in high and low gear?
Try the new belt and hopefully all this trouble goes away!
Kevin

I'm sure you've already checked, but can you turn the secondary fairly easily with the rear wheels off the ground in high and low gear?
Try the new belt and hopefully all this trouble goes away!
Kevin


