Like the clutch vane holder notches carved into the 2x10 and the home made spider tool. Just as good or better than the factory tools I had.Plus good pic on the one way as it shows the row of bearings along with the roller bearing and metal holding strips. One way bearing looks to be in good condition.

 

Thanks OPT ! Feels good to make a tool that works well instead of buying one. I'm not one for making things "pretty" either, as long as they are functional, I'm good!

Here's another pic of a more beefy spider tool with the nut welded on top. I used 5/16" bolts with the ends cut off for the stubs.

Kevin

 

Got my clutch back together.....used two steel washers instead of one brass washer inside the cup" (20 thous washers) replaced the ptfe washer on the other side of the one way bearing and all is well again! I think I'll move the engine to the right if my clutch belt ever rides on the inner sheave again. I already have three washers behind my secondary....

Kevin

 

Hopefully no more problems! Don't remember any that came back that I shimmed the rear clutch out, replaced the brass washer with the steel washer in the one way.Most times I just used the one .030 washer and got within the .020-.030 distance on the one way and sheath,but .010 extra isn't worth worrying about,considering this is about the width of 5 human hairs. Correct on the rear,wouldn't go any more than three washers total on shimming out. IF it ever creeps again,I'd look into replacing the old rubber engine isolator mounts as all have updated part numbers.May or may not be a major change factor.Items #25 and #40.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Plus hopefully I won't forget the correct steel washers people need to use in the one way next time this happens..

 

Thanks for the update on the newer style motor mounts! I may just try that instead of messing around with the clutch again, much easier!

Kevin

 

Just an update, Got all the tools to remove clutch and take the spider off. Just need something to fit the 3/4 inch spider tool. Made my holder for the clutch from a 2x12.

I'm getting closer.

Mike

 

If you already have a good 1/2" break over bar to break the spider loose along with a good 1/2" torque wrench that will go to 150 pounds torque,just get a GOOD quality 3/4" to 1/2" reducer adapter. OR you can do as I and several other mechanics have done,zap the spider tool with a heavy 1/2" impact to initially break it loose.Says 200 foot pounds to torque back but if you can get it to 150 it ain't going anywhere.

 

Update on my ATV, been busy and finally got to work on it. I replaced the ptfe and the washer in the cup, which was .030. All went back together very easy. Still have same problem. Only way I can keep the belt of the inside of the clutch is put 3 washers under the driven pulley and push the engine as far right as it will go.

When I do this I here a clunk when starting of going forward, but if I stop and start again it does not clunk. Is the clunk the driven pulley banging the trans?

I have .020 clearance on the inboard side of the EBS where the ptfe washer is. Should I put another .010 washer in there? My belt was new one I got the AtV, could it have been damaged in the groves so now it does not want to ride on the EBS pulley?

The cup and the bearing it rides in show signs of wear, I may just replace them and see what happens.

Mike

 

Well....sorry to hear you're still having issues....

When I put those two steel washers in my "cup" , I tried a few different thicknesses so that when the spider was tightened down tight, I had very little to almost no side play in the EBS bearing but was still able to turn it. It took 40 thous (2 washers) to take up that space. My clutch works perfectly now.
I notice my bike makes a click or light clunk when I take off too but I don't always hear it. My bike has about 3700 miles also....I'm betting it's play in the tranny......expected.
Your belt grooves might be worn over and not letting it fall properly in the EBS grooves. Try flipping the belt around and try it. I accidentally installed my belt on backwards when it was new and when I noticed and turned it around , it rubbed on a sheave??? So I left it alone running backwards. Maybe if you turn yours around , the grooves might line up better with your EBS pulley. Either that or try a new belt.

 

Worn cup and bearing could be the major problem. I've had to replace them also if the cup was ground down any and the plain clutch bearing is worn down to where you see the brass inner liner.You can try adding a washer as .020 was the max allowed clearance you should have between the one way and the inner sheath according to the Polaris engineer I talked to.A little tighter than .020 as Kevcules mentioned wont hurt as long as the one way isn't binding up. Plus turning the belt around as mentioned may help as it can be installed letters out or in. Installing a new belt with the markings facing you is just a common way to make sure in case you ever take a belt off you know which way it was originally turning.If this doesn't help and the belt still drifts over,I'd replace the worn cup and plain bearing in the drive clutch along with a new belt if needed. Sometimes these 2001 and 2002 models were a pain keeping them from creeping.Plus it's natural for some people to hear a clunk or drive line lash as it's called when taking off because you have to consider the small amount of slack from the drive clutch to the transmission,the transmission to the drive shafts and any play that they may have also. It ends up with a clunk when this slack is suddenly taken up when torque is applied.The 700 and 800 machines drive line lash was even more noticeable because of the increased power/torque. If everything was super tight on tolerances you'd be tearing something up constantly.