If your lower motor mount is still ok, then try moving the engine to one side a little bit , to see what your belt does. I would say to the right might help. If you look underneath your bike where the motor mount bolt is , you will see an "adjustment slot" . This is there to adjust the engine side to side for belt alignment and clutch pulley offset. It's hard to tell if the mount is worn enough to give u problems , so changing it just because , might be a good idea. ($20)
I tried getting a washer the same size as the brass one at my dealership with the part number 7556401 today with no luck. That washer is way too small and is used behind the driven clutch. Very close , if not exactly the same size as the washers that are there now. The clerk wasn't much help when I asked for a washer the same size as the brass one either!
I managed to find a reg washer the same OD size at a fastener store ( had to bore out the center a little) but it's too thick. Even with the spider and sheave screwed on hand tight, I couldn't turn the one way bearing at all. So I'll ask some guys at work to hopefully shave it down a little. I'm going to ask for twice the thickness of the brass washer. I think the brass one is 30 thous.
If you need to disassemble your primary clutch, you need special tools. You can buy them or make them. I can send you pics off the ones I made if u like.
Cycle parts warehouse is a great place to get any parts u might need to rebuild your clutch. But inspect your sheaves for cracks and grooves first. Rebuilding your primary clutch is a lot less expensive than buying a new clutch. Have u seen the price of them yet??

Kevin

 

I really was hoping it was not the clutch or EBS shim. Bike only has 729 miles and 129 hours on it. Photos would be nice Thanks........Just curious if I took the clutch off would the dealer fix it for me? Or would they just charge too much?

Mike

 

One last time and I think I have it now... Really had to try to remember on the brass washer replacement that I used that the Polaris engineer recommended. It's one of the shims INSIDE of the non ebs clutch,not the spacer behind it like I mentioned. #8 or #9 in the break down.Thickness varies from .020,.025,.030 The 1.5 x2.0 x either the 0.25 or 0.30. Either will work and most hardware stores will have these size washers. I think third times charm on this now. Getting harder to remember everything as the years pass by.. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Looking for a video on taking the entire clutch apart, not really found one yet. Anyone know of when please post a link.

Thanks
Mike

 

This one shows the spider tool and disassembly of an ebs clutch a little different than yours. All ebs and non ebs clutches are similar in design. On your clutch when you remove your top half it exposes the "cup" that has the brass washer inside(that's usually worn down), then the one way bearing and fiber washer on the inside.Polaris P85 Clutch Repair - YouTube If the brass washer is cupped/ground down,replace it with one of the two shim sizes(.025 or .030) that I finally remembered using that were recommended. Plus usually the fiber washer will need to be replaced.If all works well the one way bearing will then be snug and tight and hopefully belt walking,creeping will stop.

 

If you brought the clutch to them(dealer) , it would be much cheaper than having them take it off but they will charge you way too much money. I forget where you live but there's a guy on the "polaris atv forum" that deals with qsc clutch kits and rebuilds all clutches. His name is Ryan and his forum name is "Ridinagain" . I would definitely consider someone like him to rebuild it for you if you can't do it yourself. I can get you his email address if you would like.

PS....OPT.....those new washer sizes were correct! I got three of them today , .020 , .025, and .030
Would you know what the diameter of the "cup" is ? (covers the one way bearing. Where the brass washer goes) I'm wondering if my cup diameter is worn and even with a new bushing in the moveable sheave, i still have a little play in there. $35 plus tax at the dealership and $19 plus tax at cycleparts!

Kevin

 

Don't even ask me what diameter/length the cup is supposed to be.. Hard enough to jog my old memory on the right washers to use. On the one way bearing play,if you replaced the fiber washer, the.030 steel washer and torqued it down and have more than .035 clearance with a feeler gauge between the fiber washer and inner sheath, then I'd say replace the cup.Usually though the brass washer takes the brunt of the wear not the cup. If it's a new bearing in the moveable sheath and wiggle room is excessive,then possible the cup may be worn,but again I don't remember ever having to replace one myself.

 

Here are a few pics of the tools I made to remove the spider. Its' on there with either 200 or 185 ft/lbs of torque. I can't remember right now which of the settings the EBS clutch has. Check your manual.
The hold down tool is just where I used a router on a 2x6 board and cut out the lines where the "fins" are on the clutch. I just marked the fins with a black marker , then quickly tapped the clutch on the wood to give me lines to cut.Also used a long piece of threaded rod through the center to physically "hold down" the clutch!
For the one way bearing , I just cleaned the bearing rollers and pads with a rag , then used light grease and rubbed the grease into the bearing rollers and little springs on the larger rollers.
For the spider removal tool, i welded square tubing on a plate with a hole in the center. I scribed a circle on the plate then drilled three holes equal distance apart. I ended up removing the small metal stubs I had on there and went with a 5/16" stub. I also welded a nut on top of the square tubing (not shown) so I could use a torque wrench for install.

I'm surprised you even need to disassemble the clutch with so little miles on it? Maybe the brass and PTFE washer are toast and if that's the case, the spider does have to come off. It's real easy to disassemble the clutch, watch out for the buttons flying out when you are turning the spider off. The vids are good too.

Kevin

 

A few more goodies....

This pic is my primary clutch removal tool. It's just a 9 inch piece of 3/4" fine threaded rod with a nut welded on top. Put some grease on the end, screw it in and use an impact gun to pop the clutch off. If no air gun , you can use a long bar through the clutch to hold it from turning then tighten the bolt. Install torque is about 40-45 lbs if I remember right.
The other tool is for the secondary clutch. It's to slightly compress the spring to remove the clip and disassemble the unit.....very easy.

The other pic is my clutch sheave that I repaired last year. These cracks can be dangerous because they can make the sheave shatter and come apart at high speeds. I used a small drill bit and drilled the end of each crack to hopefully stop it from growing. Similar to a windshield repair. I know I should replace it and will someday ,but for now I'm ok with just putting along the trail. I check the condition at least twice a year and so far so good!

 

Great photos, getting my tools together. I need to get a 200lb torque wrench. Will go by Harbour Freight next week. I have a 20% of from them.

Mike