I just bought this wheeler and I want to go through it and change all fluids and check everything out. I have ordered a carb rebuild kit and a clymer manual. The wheeler fires right up and runs good but after a lil bit the carb will load up and you have to throttle up to clean it out. Will the rebuild kit take care of this? What all should I check out and watch out for? What kind of fluids go where? Is there anything else I should change or rebuild? Thanks in advance.

 

Hopefully the carb kit will help on the bogging/loading up.Sounds like a worn needle and seat allowing too much fuel.One of the things to check is the counter balancer fluid. Only takes 75ccs or so,but if it's milky colored,water pump seals are leaking. The dip stick is under the carb. Item#43. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus not a bad idea to pull the oil pump plate(located on the front of the atv) to check that the pump is ok and not corroded/frozen up as this was a bad area for water to get in.The Clymer manual will show what basic fluids to use such as the 2 stroke injector oil which on this just about any tcw3 rated oil is ok to use. Transmission fluid I'd stay with Polaris AGL or equivalent oil suitable for chain driven gear cases. NO 80/90 gear oil. The hubs I'd stay with Polaris Demand Drive fluid.Just look over the manual and it should help you on service and on any repairs if needed.

 

Thanks a lot. I sure appreciate the info.

 

Ok got all the fluids changed and started riding it. Then all hell broke loose. It won't shift into reverse and yes I have adjusted the linkage. But that's not the biggie. The problem is now if I give it a bunch of throttle it starts grinding like the chains slipping but it's not. Please help. Thanks

 

Grinding is probably caused by the chain. Not the external one,but the internal"silent chain" as it's called in the gear case. It's not very silent if it's loose and worn out and starts jumping teeth. I've had them like this that as soon as you gave them throttle they would grind and the vehicle wouldn't even move.Also be sure to check the teeth and inner splines of the outer gear case drive sprocket. If the sprocket splines are stripped it can give the same symptoms as the internal gear case chain. If you have to tear into it check the dogs on the gears,bearings,shift forks and circlip. Always replace the chain regardless. The Clymer manual you have should help you on this job. Item #32 is the internal chain.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Thanks for the info. I started pulling the bike apart and I believe it's the outer sprocket. The little one that the Chain rides on. It's a 13 tooth sprocket. I couldn't see it jumping till I tried turning it by hand. Then I could see it. Hopefully a new sprocket will fix the problem so I don't have to tear into the gearbox. We will see. Thanks again.

 

Was hoping it was that and not the chain in the gear case. Even remember a tsb or heads up type bulletin for the techs on soft sprockets. Some would strip some wouldn't. Shows to be a 3221044 12 tooth sprocket on the 94 400L 2x4. Some one probably just jumped up a tooth to change gearing a little for top end. Shows one on Ebay for 38 bucks. Shows 25 bucks here + shipping.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Ok fixed the chain slipping problem. It was the front sprocket. Now I have a problem starting the wheeler. Sometimes it will fire right up then other times it just keeps turning over till the batteries dead. I tried cranking it and turned the key to off and it would want to fire up. Then after the battery ran down I tried jump starting it and it wouldn't start for anything. I tried the key trick again and it fired up and was idled real high. Then I shut it off and couldn't get it cranked again. It would try starting and then it would just stop like there was no power then after a couple seconds it would start turning over again. I have no idea where to start. I guess it's the solenoid that's right beside the battery and it has a crack in it. Everything else seems fine. Could that be the culprit? Thanks in advance

 

Think I'd start at the basics and see what compression is and if you have a good constant spark first. If compression is at least 120 psi or so and spark is good,you can try jumping the solenoid posts with the key on and see if it starts.If it does you may need a new solenoid especially if it's cracked. If power seems intermittent to the ignition switch,check that the sealed pouch located up from the solenoid has power on each side of the red wires going in and out of it.This is the main 20 amp circuit breaker and it can cut off and on if there is a problem, causing a loss of power to the switches,lights,etc. You can also slice the pouch open and see if the circuit breaker contacts are corroded.You can get this breaker at any auto store if one is needed.Plus once you have it started and it still idles high,could just need the idle screw adjusted or if that doesn't help,it may have an air leak from crank seals,base or head gasket causing it to run lean. You just have to eliminate one thing at a time as a problem on an old machine and move on to the next thing to check.A good manual could help you on trouble shooting. http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...e%20Manual.pdf