Yep that's what I meant..

 

i looked at the parts break down and it shows 3 seals...after i pull the clutch i see one there...but then the cover comes off and there is another in there...do i do that one too??? and its installed from the clutch side??...i see the other one behind flywheel...

http://www.motosport.com/utility/oem...4-400L-W948140

 

The inner one(36) is the main crank seal. If you're going to do it right,all three need to be replaced. The outer one seals the counter balancer cavity. It's a job,but again the major culprit I found was the seal behind the drive clutch. You can replace it first and see how it runs.

 

my clutch tool came today so i figured id start...pulled the clutch and went to pull the pulley on back/trans? what ever it is and i need another puller i guess...on the vid i watched it just showed remove the bolt and it slid off...this one has threads on it and splines on inside...it didnt POP off..i soaked it with STUFF and im gonna go look for the puller...in book i printed off all it said was REMOVE...thanks again for the info...and that inner seal does install from the clutch side????

 

Found this to happen on a lot of the older clutches that have been on awhile. They'll freeze/corrode to the trans shaft. I had a secondary puller just for these cases,but you can try a little heat along with the penetrating oil. Even better if you have an impact tool and a friends hands. An old small socket on the end of the impact bit to impact the shaft while someone pulls on the clutch can help free it.Don't use any type jaw pullers as clutch damage can happen. Worse case,I'd just order the puller for secondary clutches.http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-SECONDARY-CLUTCH-PULLER-03-07-PREDATOR-50-500-90-83-SPORT-440-94-99-400-400L-/380913254004?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b032fe74&vxp=mtr

 

ill see if it will budge later but if it dont i ordered the puller...i can see a space in the seal where the ft clutch unit was...after i pull the secondary clutch...then ill pull of that plastic thing and go from there...might be next week though as ill wait for tool....if soaking and gently trying to pull off dont work. THANKS AGAIN.....its ALWAYS fun

 

the flywheel....gonna have to use an impact driver on the stator plate...what do you guys use to put back together? silver antiseize? since is a 1994..EVERYTHING is coming off hard...if you have the time...let me know.

 

Usually you do have to use a hand impact driver on the stator screws to remove them. Just soak them in carb cleaner when you remove them and just use blue loctite on assy.

 

whelp...puller came yesterday...i installed the seals...waiting on starter then ill put it back together and fire it up...i took wed off...starter should be here today (tuesday) WISH ME LUCK....thanks again for all the help...this is ONE WEIRD experience...stator plate with slots for timing? oil in a two stroke stump? philips screws with nuts in plastic? its been GREAT...LOLOLOLOL...ill let ya know more wed when its back together.AND not to mention if seals leak on crank it wont run...that was DIFFERENT...

 

Main thing on the stator plate is that you install it back with the timing mark on the plate aligned with the mark on the engine case. If there weren't any marks you're supposed to scribe marks before removing. But usually you can see what position the screws were in on the plate and can get the timing pretty close.Hope the seals were the problem.