How can I examine the crank seals before I just go ahead and order them?

Is there a way to test them?

Thanks

 

You can do a low pressure leak down test with a spray bottle of soapy water around the cases and seals,but you need a leak down tester and it's about as easy to just go ahead and replace them,especially the one behind the drive clutch as it's the easiest to get to and the one that causes the most problems.You do have to have a clutch puller,but the seal just pops out and a new one just pops right back in.On the other side the recoil, flywheel and stator have to be removed to get to this one and it just pops out too. Not a bad idea to recheck compression just to make sure the new top end has good compression and nothing wrong in that area. Here's one video on how a leak down test is done.

 

Was there a bleed screw or anything I was supposed to do this morning after the rebuild that could stop it from running? Other than maybe the crank seals. Any wiring I should examine? The ETC perhaps? If that was faulty would that stop it from running?

Greg

 

Bleed screw on the oil pump itself,but if you didn't disconnect it shouldn't have been a problem. Plus always best to premix the first tank of fuel at 50-1 ratio as a precaution on any oil injected machine. Same as we had to do on them brand new out of the crate. Just to protect the engine in case it took a little while to get oil from the pump,to the carb(injector nozzle) then to the engine. On these old models the throttle actually needs to have almost no slack,less than the later models because the etc switch is set up a little different. If you have too much throttle slack on these old ones they'll usually crank,but bang out at an idle. Like this old 400 2 stroke does.

 

Is possible the gas is bad? Is gas is approximately 6 weeks old in the tank....

 

Not enough that it shouldn't run. Just retrace or steps,check compression on this new top end to eliminate any problem there. Check that you have good spark and it's not carb or a fuel supply problem.If compression is good,spark is good,getting fuel to the carb,replace the crank seals.

 

Hi Again,

You were absolutely right, the crank shaft seal needed to be replaced on the clutch drive side...since it's been replaced the atv has been amazing again, took her out camping last weekend for 3 days and never once had an issue with it starting up and running....

Can you have a look at this video and let me know what you think the problem with the electric start is? Dead battery, as in low voltage or starter? It does the same thing when you jump the posts on the solenoid as well. I won't have a volt meter until tomorrow to check the voltage on the battery. The battery is new though like brand new. So maybe voltage regulator or stator even...Help

Pull start works fine still no issues with the pull start...


Cheers

Thanks Again

Greg

 

Figured it was the crank seal since I replaced so many of the blamed things. Glad you have that part sorted out. Check your connections on the battery and solenoid.Looks kinda rusty. Plus charge the battery fully and have it load tested. Can be a weak battery doing this,connections may need cleaned up or could be the starter or starter bendix binding up against the flywheel. Just start at the battery first and work from there.Plus once it's running make sure the battery is charging around 14 volts or so above an idle.If not possibly a bad regulator not keeping the battery up.

 

Yes I do tend to agree the battery is probably weak as this is not the first time I've had to charge it back up. I believe once it's fully charged it will be fine. The battery is only 5 weeks or so old now. And yes the connectors on the solenoid do look a little rusty and could do with a good cleaning up or even replacement connectors...

I will charge the battery tonight and report back tomorrow on the condition of the battery...

Thanks Again for everything

Greg

 

Update:
Battery at rest is 12.80 Volts
Battery at just above an idle is 13.86 Volts.

My guess is the charging system is doing its job along with the battery being is find condition.

What can I examine next? Does the starter just need to be rebuild or replaced along with the starter bendix?

Cheers

Greg