Get quite a few like this that don't report back. Look at the "sticky" post above this section on 700/800 efi problems. Most efi problems (85% as the manual states ) are wiring related not so much the sensors themselves. Most common codes thrown were 22 (tps high or low voltage) and 45,46,(T-bap low voltage or short to ground) Sometimes you can check the thin wires leading from the sensors and find cuts or soft wires that have melted internally. Codes may not always pop up,but hard starting,backfiring can be from either one of the sensors wiring and connectors. Cheap connectors that pins can pull back from and thin wiring and Polaris repair kits weren't any better as they were the same thin wiring.Replaced those over and over. If you find any bad sensor wires,harness repair kits are available here that are stronger. https://otbpowersports.com/products/

 

OldNBroken,
you are going to be disappointed. I am in the same condition as my last post. Had some life things happen and was out of country for a while. I am back and planning on revisiting my trailer ornament soon. I will post what I find....

 

I am having the same issue with the same codes.
I have diagnostics on the machine.
I have the shop manual and have ohmed all the sensors and wires in the system.
I also have the TP sensor test connector cable and tested and set.
no change in anything.
did you ever fix it?

 

Not yet. I purchased a new battery and installed it after a good trickle charge. That did not help. Pulled off the ECM connector and verified that it was clean and nothing had gotten into it because there was a lot of built up dried mud on the outside of it. I have a new fuel pump ordered and on the way. When I finally got to look at it again I found that it is no longer pumping fuel out like before. It is now just a dribble when I tried to put the new fuel injection tester that I bought just for this. I also have on the way the TPS sensor connector from OTB and will install that when it arrives. I did have 5.11 VDC on one of the pins when checked to ground with key on. I will continue on this thing. I am in a holding pattern until all of the parts get here now but I will continue to update.

 

Today I finally had some time and drive to the wheeler. Replaced the TSP plug. Removed the tank and pump. The positive wire was not even hooked up. Pulled the pump and the float and what I think is the regulator were sitting on the bottom of the tank. All hoses have disintegrated to the point that I don't know how they hook up. I have the new pump attached and ready to plumb.How does the float attach? I am cleaning out the tank and then put it back together before I will know if I have this thing repaired.

 

TPS Connector



Pressure regulator?



Fuel level sender. How does the float attach?

 

Looks like the regulator is trash,the float arm is probably at the bottom of the tank and if the float if saturated needs to be replaced. The sender looks corroded to where the float arm and float may not even work right.This was the model that the pump assembly couldn't be replaced,the tank assy had to be replaced.Floats are available if needed.FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT FLOAT - Polaris ATV - X2, Sportsman 500, 700, 800, Can-Am Renegade - DJSFLOAT You can tell real quick on the speedo if you move the float arm wire up and down slowly.It will either show fuel level or not. Here's a pic of what one looks like on other models. I haven't kept up on total pump assy replacements on these older models that were part of the tank.This is one of the worst ones I've seen as far as corrosion.

 

So, I got the new pump and regulator installed and cleaned up the fuel level sender with electro-wash and gently using a green scrub pad. cleaned up the whole in tank unit until it was nice and shiny. I installed everything in the tank and installed the tank. The good news is that the pump works and I am sensing fuel level. I am holding 40psi at the fuel rail connection. Bad news, I am seriously leaking at the fuel rail to injector connection and I still have all the original fault codes. 1 step forward and 3 steps back. UGH!!

 

That should be an easy fix with the grommets(6,8) and the o-ring(5). That is unless it's the fuel rail itself needs to be replaced. Glad the new pump works along with the sender. That's the surprising part to me.Plus if you fix the leaks the codes may disappear. Kinda like the same thing on my old truck recently. Check engine light showed lean mix to oxygen sensor,but the problem was a weak(20psi) fuel pump flow. Had the fuel pump replaced,then the check engine light was gone.

 

Update-
got the new seals and grommets installed on the injector and MAP sensor. It now starts intermittently. It will idle for 20-30 seconds when it does start. However if I attempt to give it any throttle at all it dies immediately. Disconnected battery while installing seals and grommets to clear any stored codes. Checked for fault codes after it started and I still have the 22,41,45,47,51 that I had before. This is after I replaced all sensor connectors that OTB offers for my model. I disconnected the TPS connector and tried starting- Made no difference. At least it will somewhat start now so I have made some steps forward.