Hello im new to the forum.. Just bought a 01 scrambler 500 4x4 .is it normal for the 4x4 to take a while to engage? Btw the bike is on 4 stands while doing this?

 

On stands it's not a"real world" type situation on awd engagement.It can be erratic on front wheels kicking in with no load on them. I just lifted em up to make sure both front tires would engage in testing out hub systems. If you haven't already done so change the hub fluid. Demand Drive Plus is still the best thing out there to use along with Agl in the gear case. Once on the ground the front wheels should kick in once the rear tires break traction,usually within a 1/8 turn of the rear wheels or less. Then the front tires kick back out once the rear tires regain traction.This is usually pretty quick and seamless,you hardly notice it at times.That's what's good about the old hub activated system when everything is working properly. Also while you have it in the air check for any up and down play in the rear axle housing(bearings) and also for any slack on the prop shaft u-joints that run from the gear case to the front diff. Front diff takes plain old 80/90 gear oil.

 

I rebuilt both hubs new oem hillard clutches and armature plates and changed the fluid..however i was told by a local dealer that i can use type f auto trans fluid.and when i have it on 4 stands the 4x4 doesnt kick in right away it taks a while of the rear wheels to spin for it to activate then once its activated its on.but if i let it sit with the 4x4 off and go to switch on again all over again waiting for it to activate.

 

Again up in the air with no load it make take a little bit of rear wheel turn before the front wheels kick in. One wheel may even kick in before the other one which is normal in these instances. The main thing is that BOTH front wheels kick in with the awd switch on.When you flip the awd switch off the front wheels should stop engaging. You may even have to stop one with your foot to physically unlock it when it's in the air,but should stop spinning after that. Once on the ground the systems works as designed as long as you have everything installed right in the hubs and axle nut torqued no more than 144 inch pounds. Type F transmission fluid was used on the the very early models but Demand Drive Plus is a whole lot better as far as lubrication and replaced type F years ago. Some people still use it,but only way I would if the good stuff wasn't available.Then drain the crap out and use the fluid designed for it. Just get it on the ground,drive it a while to break all the parts in and then to test it out. Pull against a tree or post with loose dirt at the rear wheels and the front tires should engage rapidly.

 

I don't have anything to push against to test my 4WD so I came up with my own way. I jacked up the rear end and not the front. I blipped the throttle and it pulled right off the jack with no hesitation. On the old hub activated 4x4 you would have to test one front wheel at a time but it should work IMO. Just be ready to hit the brakes.

 

The Polaris 4x4 system seems erratic to me period. Constantly sensing wheelslip and kicking in and out of 4x4 regardless of whether you want it to or not. I think the Can-Am Visco Lock is similar but its in regards to whether the front diff is fully locked or simply limited slip. On everything else, you push a button and its 4x4 for as long as the button is pushed. You push another button and/or flip a lever(Yamaha and Suzuki) to get full diff-lock. Yes, its an extra step to get diff-lock but its controlled fully by the rider.

 

Both the Can am and Polaris are AWD , not 4wd. The front drive has to kick off once the rear regain traction or the ATV would be unsteerable . It would be like riding a 4wd Yamaha in diff lock (Not fun) since AWD has no limited slip front drive. Its in 2wd or true 4wd , no inbetween 3wd limited slip on a Polaris or Can-AM.

To test the AWD I just nose up to a tree or wall , if the rear wheels turn but not the front you have problems.

 

Put the Grizzly in diff-lock and its a definite workout to steer it. I think the newer power steering equipped models are a bit more manageable with diff-lock engaged. I only rode a 700 once and never tried diff-lock. I did put it in 4x4 limited slip and it was still really easy to steer, easier than my 660 in 2wd. I guess the awd system isn't that bad but all or nothing are your 2 choices. 4x4 limited slip gets you through a lot and it doesn't make the machine unsteerable. A tree is always useful to test your 4x4. It will try to climb it if you're not careful lol.

 

A diff lock can not even be engaged unless its in low or has a rev limiter for safety reasons. In limited slip 3wd a ATV can go as fast as you want, just like a full time 4wd back in the day.
Diff lock is only used for that short slow section where 3wd is not enough so the hard steering is not a problem.

Here is a video that show the time delay of a AWD Polaris kicking the front wheels on once the rear wheels slip, it undetectable kicking on and off.
Remember even in AWD mode the ATV is always in 2wd until the rear wheels slip then once the rears regain traction it returns to 2wd, this all happen in nano-seconds and it unnoticeable to the rider. If your into power sliding corners you better have a Polaris in 2wd mode .

 

ive put mine against a tree n what not but unless its muddy, its reall hard on the equipment..i find some good loose gravel and just floor it, or u can tie off to a tree, vehicle, etc..in gravel..