Hi, I'm new to the Polaris world and I've bought a 99 335 4x4 I just did a top end rebuild and checked my belt, the belt was really really loose, so I went and bought a new OEM belt, and it was exactly the same size as the old belt. The belt while on the machine has at least 3" of sloppy motion, the clutches are in perfect alignment with each other, all seems right, the motor is mounted nice and tight no loose motion either way, this ATV does not have ebs, is this normal amount of belt travel? I did check and this is the correct belt, and clutch centers are the correct 10" apart. Am I OK or no? Have not even cranked it up so I don't know about performance at all, just seems really loose. Any help is really appreciated!

 

Shouldn't have more than 1 1/2" play in the belt with a straight edge across the top of both clutches while pulling down on the center of the belt. Try it first and see how it does.. You can take up some slack by removing stacking shims in between the rear clutch sheaths. You have to leave at least one shim inside.Items #8,9,10. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If you have to do that,might as well replace the 3 ramp buttons in the rear clutch while you're at it.

 

Thanks OPT I'll give it a try today and see what it does.

 

Have any idea what would cause a new belt to be this way? Local ATV guy said this is normal if there is no ebs especially on older Polaris models. Looks to me like it'll burn this belt off before dark.

 

Non ebs belts will be loose compared to ebs belts.Like you mentioned clutch distance is correct at 10 inches measured center to center of the drive and driven clutch bolts. If belt slack is excessive,more than the 1 1/2" mentioned,then possible clutch work needed. Rear ramp button and helix wear,front clutch buttons and plain bearings. Again some slack can be taken up by removing two shims in between the rear clutch sheaths to help compensate for clutch wear over time.

 

Well not much progress made today, found out my needle valve and seat are wore out, "flooding terrible" so ordering a rebuild kit for the carb. But did learn one thing today that was useful, when removing the choke cable from the carb on these machines it's tuff, but if you buy a little pair of channel lock plier's, " the smallest pair they make" it reaches right in and turns it with ease! FANTASTIC!!

 

If you haven't ordered the kit yet,Shindy is about as good as they come.Shindy Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Kit Polaris Sportsman 335 03 424 | eBay Yes the baby channel lock pliers are great. Work great on soft head, stripped float bowl screws also.Good addition to any tool box.

 

Well got carb kit installed today and reinstalled the carb, no more flooding but now it won't fire? Checked fire on plug = good fire checked gas = plenty of gas sooooo? Checked that the motor is grounded to the frame and it is? Scratching my head, when I turn the choke on it sounds like it's catching fire in the chamber? Not really hitting? I took the top cap off and rechecked the timing and it is correct so what's my problem?

 

Gotta have compression,spark,fuel and air for one to run.. But a lot of variables in between there. Compression reading won't be too high because of the compression release on the cam,but I'd check that it's working right and recheck valve clearance as a starter. Air box and filter need to be on(in case you have it off) as that can cause a lean condition and interfere with running. Plus may not be a bad idea to just go ahead and do a leak down test even though you say you have a new top end. You can tell pretty quick if valves,rings or gaskets are leaking. Plus you can pull the fuel line from the carb and crank the engine over. Should be a steady or pulsing stream of fuel from the pump.

 

When I rebuilt the top end I checked the compression release and replaced one valve rocker arm, the valves were set to .006 on both intake and exhaust, had the jug honed by a professional with a boring machine to make sure all went well and we stayed in spec with standard piston and rings, the breather and cover is closed up tight, new spark plug put in and new coil wire also. Also made sure ring gaps were set at right places on piston. What now?