Hey Guys. I am looking for some help. I have a 2007 Polaris 500EFI that is having some problems. So if I am driving it for a awhile it will all of a sudden lose power and not accelarate any faster and it idles rough. But right when I turn the key off and re start it. It runs fine until I continue riding for awhile. I pulled the fuel pump out and noticed that the sock filter had fell apart inside the tank. I then cleaned the tank out and removed the sock filter pieces thinking the pump was getting clogged up from the filter material. Reinstalled everything and same problem is occurring. I pulled the codes and got 41 22 45 46. I looked at the wiring and all looks ok. And ideas were these wires usually break or fail? Any help would be great

 

You can check fuel pressure,must hold 39psi,but codes 41,45,46 are a good clue. Usually the tbap connector or wiring. Hard starting,back firing,erratic idle is usually a sign you have a short in the wiring. Either a bare wire or a wire internally melted or the connector pins have pulled back a little not making contact. Look at the "sticky post" above this section on 70/800 efi problems. Applies to 500 efi problems also.It refers to a place to get better repair kits. https://otbpowersports.com/products/ Sounds like you may need this one. You can also pull the tbap sensor up and check the condition of the rubber grommet. Sometimes they may crack and leak also from age.

 

Hello I did check the fuel pressure and it was 39 psi. Would that tbap sensor cause it to lose that much power and reset once I start it again ? How to I go about fixing the code 22 ? Also here is a wierd thing. When I open the gas cap and look into the tank while it is running there is a lot of fuel coming back to the tank but when it starts running poor and I look into the tank there is not the same amount of fuel coming back?

 

Code 22 is "loss of synchronization" that usually is a bogus code that shows up when codes 41,45,or 46 does which usually points to a tbap wiring problem. And yes a short in this thin wiring or connector can cause power loss. It sends faulty info to the ecu and it acts up as far as ignition timing,fuel supplied to the injectors,etc. Wish I had these connector kits when I had to replace all the ones I did. Many times I replaced these same kits over and over with the cheap Polaris supplied repair kits.Again you can pull the tbap sensor up and check if the rubber grommet is cracked or damaged that can cause it to suck air,but my thought is still the tbap harness. Also code 22 on some machines refers to the tps high or low voltage.. Check the wiring on the tps sensor and if needed OTB supplies wiring harness kits for it also..

 

Ok we're is the Tbap sensor on the 500? There is a sensor in the air box and a MAF sensor in the intake horn? I checked wiring and it all looks good from what I can see?

 

Again wiring may "look good" but wires can be internally melted if there are are soft feeling wires or the connector pins can pull back and not make good contact. Sensor in the air box is the air temperature sensor. Map sensor(air pressure sensor) is on the intake manifold. Shows the grommet that can leak also. Items 9 and 10.

 

Ok I replaced that rubber gormet last week thinking that was it. It didn't help. I tried moving the wires all around and disconnecting then when the problem occurs and it doesn't help. The other thing I have noticed today is when the problem occurs I can just un plug the fuel pump and let it die and plug it back in and it runs fine again and this is with the key on the whole time. Could it be the requlator or pump? Any ideas?. I can't see it being wiring when the all goes away when I cut the power to the pump

 

If the pump is holding 39 psi as you say then the pump wouldn't be the problem. Regulator may be,but haven't seen that you can get one separately, but may be wrong on that. Plus throwing codes 41,45,46 usually leads directly to the tbap harness and connector.

 

If it was a connection wouldn't it help while was moving the wires around trying to cause or help the problem? And I only checked the pump pressure while the quad was stationary no running under load.

 

Sometimes you can tell if the engine rpms change or it back fires,etc when pulling wires but not always. That's how you check a pump with no load,engine off. Really needs to just have the key on then hook up the pressure tester,bleed any air from the tester and see what the pressure holds. If it holds 39psi,the pump is ok.