Hey OPT, I dis assembled the carb last night and cleaned it up good however I couldn't get one of the brass fittings out with a flat head. It is the small one with a hole in it, would it be okay to use a little heat on it?

 

Pilot jet needs a good small screw driver,but if frozen or corroded,try a little Wd 40, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let it soak a little while. Last case would I use a heat gun with some more penetrant and don't mess up the screw head or you'd have to use a small ez out to remove it. IF you still can't get it out you can still use carb spray and an air nozzle to make sure the pilot jet is open. You can hear the air hissing through it. Look at this pdf section from the service manual on carbs. Can help you on the float height,etc. You have the BST34 carb.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA

Float Height: BST 34 13.0mm (.51″) ± 1 mm

 

Thanks OPT, yea that little you know what is stuck in there pretty good. I let in soak in some pb blaster over night. The jet is definitely open. I didn't totally annihilate the head on it but it might be getting close. If I cant locate an ez out could I drill it out with a small bit? I've been using that link as a reference as I've been doing it. All the parts are clean ready to go back in except for that one. I got the piston kit last night so hopefully I should have it all back together this weekend!

 

If you can spray carb cleaner through the pilot jet it I wouldn't mess with it unless you really want to. I've seen people destroy carbs trying to get these out. A small ez out will probably work but if you break it off... Sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone and replace the rest of the parts.

 

Thanks OPT I have everything back together and I got it to start. It seems to idle really high, I tried to back out the idle stop adjustment and that didn't work. I pulled out the choke about a quarter of the way and it slowed the rpms but that would eventually kill it when it sounded like normal. When I advance the throttle it kills the engine too so I have no idea what is going on.


It probably ran for a good 2 minutes on and off last night. I replaced the fuel hoses while I was at it and all the hose and tank shielding is all still good.


I researched the troubleshooting section about a high idle and the only thing I could think of is the throttle cable not properly routed which there is nothing in the manual about a proper way. I figured it would be this because I can hear a click when I push the throttle lever to full but I do not hear a click when I release it when it sits back on the idle stop screw.


The only thing I could remember is when I was putting the carb back together when I would raise the little door thing up it didn't want to come back down after I cleaned it, It seemed to get stuck but thinking that the vacuum would take care of it when it was running would fix that. What do you think?

 

The butterfly on the carb is operated by the cable. You can also spray some carb cleaner in the cracks and crevices around the butterfly and see it it returns smoothly.Make sure you have 1/8" slack only at the thumb throttle. Too tight and you can have problems. Have this adjusted right first the see if the idle adjuster gets you a smooth idle. Plus check for any cable binding going from the throttle housing and around the side of the machine leading to the carb,this is another common problem for a high idle and can be dangerous. After final idle adjustment turn the bars fully to the left and right. There must not be any idle increase or the cable is still binding or too tight.

 

OPT it worked, I rerouted the throttle cable and it worked like a charm! I also backed out the pilot screw another half turn. For some reason the original one was only 1 and a quarter turn out and the service manual said 2 to 2 and a half turns out. As I was rebuilding the carb and put the new needle in the jet I did notice the needle was slightly skinnier than the one that I took out. The plastic washer would slide right off where the old one hugged the top of the needle. The number off the original needle is 4HB41 and the original eclip was 1 notch richer than the middle position. I didn't catch a number off the new one from the Shindy kit. Should I move the eclip on the new needle to 1 notch leaner due to the skinnier needle? Is there a way to tell if it runs rich or lean other than looking at the smoke coming out of the exhaust?

 

If it's running good now with no hesitation or bog I'd leave the needle clip position alone. The needle clip position mainly controls the rate of fuel off idle to mid throttle position. If it's running good leave it where it is.If it seems a tad boggy off an idle then raise the clip so that the needle is lowered a tad and see if it's better.

 

Awesome OPT, thanks for all the info on this project! I don't really know if its bogging since I plan on going really easy on it and I'm not advancing the throttle quickly until the engine is broken in a bit more, its more or less a smooth transition. How many hours do you think I can run it on that junk oil before I change it to the T6? I did notice some sort of ticking on the magneto side of the engine which is weird because I took out all the lifters and cleaned them along with the pushrods. Do you think its possible that something got gummed up in there already?

 

Depends on what kind of "junk oil" you used... If it's non synthetc then I'd change it pretty quick to the T6. If it's at least synthetic wait until 10-15 hrs or so. Noise may not be in the stator side but can be also be worn clutch guide buttons causing noise to radiate over. Also the noise you hear may be the normal hydraulic lifter tapping noise these engines make especially at an idle.