Flywheel has to be removed with a harmonic balance puller or heavy duty steering wheel puller and (3) 8mm bolts. Then the stator plate has to be remove to get to the crank sprocket. Mark it against the case before you remove it!! To time it up,the lower sprocket mark has to be inline with the case mark(TDC) and the plated link on it.theother two plated links line up on the cam sprocket dots.Look at this members post on this. https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...ml#post3305250

 

I don't have the equipment to pull the flywheel. The chain wasn't lined up properly in the bottom, so it made it hard to get the sprocket lined up right. I did it though. Couldn't use the silver links as a guide. That link was awesome, good reference to bookmark.

Adjusted the valve clearances again, and put it all back together. Need to get more oil and a gasket before starting up again.

If the chain jumps again, I'll get someone to pull the flywheel and do this the right way. I manually turned the engine over multiple times and the timing held.

Question: do I need to worry about manually adding oil to the top end, or will the engine do that on its own when I start it up?

 

Plated links on the chain are just an easy way to time one when it's a part. Doesn't really matter as the links won't line up again once the engine is turned over. As long as you're at tdc and the cam sprocket alignment pin is dead center of the head,that all that matters as far as the chain goes. If the top end is really dry from sitting then yes a little oil over the cam journals,rocker arms is fine. Pour the rest of the oil in the tank.

 

Well I'm not out of the woods yet, but making progress. After fixing the timing chain issue, I can start the machine hot and cold, and I can lower the RPMs. Haven't put it in gear yet.

Next I need to set the idle speed and set the idle mixture per the service manual. This thing doesn't have a tach so I'll need to buy one.

@OldPolarisTech - thank you so much for all your help!

 

Don't buy a tach.. Just set the idle screw to a low smooth idle to where it doesn't grind going into gear. The fuel screw(pilot screw) normally sets between 2-2.5 turns out from a lightly seated position.

 

Here are 2 videos of what it sounds like now, it sounds like there is a loud knocking noise? Or is the idle just too low?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dW_4OSm-bhE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IEAEoywQOg
The startup when warm is a bit rough, but at least it starts ok. I started with a 2 5/8 turn out on the pilot screw per the service manual. Haven't changed it yet, can't figure how to easily reach it - is there a special tool I should buy? I'm trying to balance the pilot screw, the idle screw, and the throttle freeplay.

 

They've got cheap carb adjuster tools if you can't get a small screw driver in to adjust the pilot screw.Plenty of them on ebay.Best to have one to really fine tune the idle mixture.Carburetor Pilot Screw Adjustment Tool Carb Motorcycle ATV Honda | eBay
On the noise,sounds like your drive clutch is trash.. If the guide towers where the bushings ride(or lack of bushings the way it sounds) are heavily grooved, then may not be worth rebuilding,but I've actually heard them louder than yours.

 

Time to buy a clutch puller...

 

Just go to a good hardware store. 3/4" by 16 pitch threads.

 

What is that bar on top? Do you need to grind down the end to avoid mushrooming?

Per this video: DIY puller