I have an 01 Scram with RcR porting, machined head, wiseco piston, boyesen rad valve, RcR bored carb. I have developed a jetting problem all of the sudden (at least that's what I think it is). When riding at full open throttle it does okay and when you let off and then get right back on the throttle it has no power. I have replaced the needle and seat and adjusted the float level thinking it may have been running out of fuel. I have a 310 main jet, needle has been at 2nd 3rd and 4th postition. 30 pilot jet. I am thinking I might have worn reeds. They are a couple of years old. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this all of the sudden. I have done all of the obvious things such as vent lines clean air filter etc... Also what is the gap of the reed to the block supposed to be? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Shawn.

 

IMO I don't think the reeds would cause that, but I could be wrong. There should not be any gap between the reeds and the cage surface, if there is, then they need replacing. I assume you have dual stage reeds, if so, you could try flipping the composite reeds over and see if it sits flush and helps, if so, get new reeds. I have noticed the carbon fiber reeds (top petals) will long out live the composite (bottom) petals. I would imagine that worn petals would cause problems early in the throttle range, but again, I could be wrong. Does it seem like it is flooding out, sputtering?, or like there is no fuel delivery? You could have developed an air leak somewhere, obvious places would be base gasket, or oil seals. It could also be contributed to worn clutch parts??

 

It's actually a good idea to change out your reeds every year. I know a lot of people don't think the spacer is needed unless you have a big bore, but I've ran one for a few years, and have had great luck. That $20 piece spaces your reed farther away from heat and vibration....worst enemies of composites.

Also have you had your clutches apart for cleaning and inspection lately?

 

Something else I failed to mention is that it ran reallly well for about an hour yesterday after changing out the needle and seat. Then started having the same problem. I have been swapping out clutch springs to see what I like and noticed this problem at the same time. Could this be somehow related? I wouldn't have thought so. I have had an HPD plain spring in for about a year and loved it but thought I would try the HPD red/yellow. I noticed the problems around this time but didn't think that it realted. Any thougts on this?

 

Almost a duplicate post w/ NC....guess you got a lot of help. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

LOL Modquad, I think yes that it could be related somehow. And Modquad is right, changing the reeds once a year if you ride alot, is a good idea.

 

I took my clutch cover off and saw where one of the bolts that hold the clutch weights wouldn't move. Like the flyweight wouldn't move. Aren't they supposed to move freely.? I took the drive clutch cover off and it freed up but when I put it back on it wouldn't move. Is there a certain way to put this cover back on? I had my clutch rebuilt with new bushings and buttons about a year ago and it looks like it might have a little wear on one side but not too bad. I'm kinda new to the clutching scene so I'm not sure what's right and what's not. Any help would be apprecitated. Thanks

 

They should move freely, did you take the spring out and try to move them? I really think there is only a certain way they can go in there, but I could be wrong. My weights are not bushed?? They ride on bushings, are they bad, do they turn at all?? The only reason I could see that the weights would not move is if the weight screw was overtightened.

 

The flyweights move fine with the drive clutch cover plate off but only one of them won't move when you put the spring back in and tighten the drive clutch cover plate it gets stuck again.????

 

Oh ok, I see what you are saying I think... the cover should go on with the x marking lining up with the rest of the clutch, but that is just to keep it balanced. When you put the cover and spring back in, it will have to overcome the tension of the spring for the weights to move. You should be able to remove the spring, put the cover back on, and the clutch should move in and out with no binding whatsoever, including the weights. But, with the spring in and cover on, the weights will not move, they ride against the rollers when the clutch opens up with centrifugal force, the weights have to overcome the force of the spring and then the clutch opens up allowing the belt to rise in between the sheave faces. It is pretty confusing and I may not have explained it exactly right, but the weights will not move with the clutch fully assembled until the centrifugal force pushes them out.