You can check out the link in my signature for lots of wiring tricks, including the reverse override override. Look in ATV Odds & Ends.

 

I like tip of all three lights for high beam, why would Polaris do this in the first place?

 

FOURLIX;CM back at cha,as I say it only takes 1/5 turn to engage wheel and is nothing that you will ever be able to tell and they come in smooth no jump or lurching.Look at back wheel and see what 1/5th amounts to then visualize how fast wheel even at 5 miles an hour is moving and how long it takes for that 1/5 th turn.I ride the same stuff as you do with the rocks and ledges,I 've never had any problem other than rider air.The machine is flawless the rider could use some refinement LOL.As far as the 4x4 as I say let the machine decide when it needs 4x4 they do good job at it.I have been in some very radical stuff and it did great.I'm no expert by a long ways,but if your crawling some thing like that,use low side."RULE OF THUMB" if you have to slow down for obsticle use low gear save on belts. CM

 

TIM try to figure why they did some of the things they have.You won't have time to ride you'll be to busy. LOL CM

 

425Xpedition,
You say you dont have to hold down the overide button so I assume you have it bypassed. How about the reverse procedure, do you have to push the button for that and if so I'd like to know how you wired it.

For everyone else, Im refering to the fact that on the Xpedition model, which is manual shift, you push the overide button to allow you to shift down into reverse. Im really interested in this modification if the reverse procedure remains the same.

 

To answer your questions fourlix and Pfelect. The reverse procedure remains the same. You still have the push the button to get into reverse. The AWD button is on when you turn it on. The AWD button will turn on in reverse without pressing the button, and it will stay on when in nuetral. This rewire is easy to do. It can be done without doing any permanent damage to the bike. No wires have to be cut or spliced. You can buy the plugs to do all the wiring. It is also real easy to make the bike start in gear. You can buy plugs to do this also. If you want to know how to do these things email me with a phone number and I will explain how to do them. The differential ratios are different 3.1 in back and 3.7 in front. This is why the back has to spin a little for the front to engage. I can also explain this alot more if you want.

Polaris does not make it to where all three lights on because all 400's and 425's only have a 200 watt altenator. The 500's have a 250 watt alternator. If all three lights are on then the bike is using 120 watts just to run the lights. If the AWD is on the or the fan starts running the alternator cannot generate enough power to run everything and the battery is being drained. On a 500 you could probaly get away with this for awhile but on 400 or 425 the battery will go dead if you rode alot on a hot night. One thing to remember also is that the alternator only generates full power when the motor is turning at least 4000rpm.

 

so when the rear tires slip, the sensor sends power to the front hubs.Why cant we tie into the hub wires with the right voltage with a switch?

 

Well Chickenman I can definitely tell when the front end engages on any Polaris. Try climbing a softpacked hill slowly. The back tires will start to spin and then you will feel the handlebars jerk when the front wheels engage, especially if the wheels are turned. My Xplorer and my Xpedition both do it. If you are on a hardpacked hill and on the gas alot the bike will jerk and lurch forward when the front tires grab. This may not be as noticeable with stock tires but with Vampires or any aggressive tire it is very noticeable.

 

There are no sensors. When the rear wheels slip the mechanical clutches in the front hubs catch (engage) and the front wheels pull. As soon as traction at the rear wheels is recovered the hubs let go (disengage). When traction is equal the front tires over-run the hub clutches so there is no grab.

Jeff

 

originaly posted Nov 30, 1999 5:04 AM
in Topic: Improvements

Until we work out how to manually lock 4wd, the trick is to make sure the 4wd gets engaged *before* you need it.

Over the years, a lot of people have written how-to bypass the over-ride button, add a horn or backup light.

Why don't one of you electrical guru's figure out how to force it to engage the 4wd (save me a lot of time & effort )? Everybody complains about the 4wd not engaging when going down hill, and sometimes it would be better if you could force it into 4wd *before* the wheels spin.

For example: one day I drove up to a small vertical embankment .. maybe a foot high. I put it in 4wd and attempted to "climb" over. Well, since the 4wd doesn't engage until the rear wheels slip, the 500 groaned & strained, spun the back wheels enough to engage the 4wd, and then shot nearly vertical as it jumped up that embankment under full power. It would have been much better if I could have forced the 4wd to lock up then have the front wheels help pull it up at partial throttle.

Until we work out how to manually lock 4wd, the trick is to make sure the 4wd gets engaged *before* you need it.