The problem is Tim you can't make it engage electrically because it's mechanical not electrical. The only electric part is the electro magnet which allows the clutchs in the hubs to operate. The actual clutch engagement is mechanical.

Jeff

 

425 you maybe right maybe a difference in the way we ride,hey I'm old what can I say.By the time my brain registers whats going on I'm up the hill and into something else and don't relize whats going on. LOL CM

 

I don't know how many times we'll have to tell these guys that the front wheel engagement can't be made to lock. There's not a servo or any other mechanism in the front hubs that gets activated when the rear wheels slip. When the AWD switch is activated, the magnet in the front hubs is immediately activated, and the engagement "happens" when the mechanical ratio of the rear end exceeds the mechanical ratio of the front gear box. I would refer to the front gear box as the differential, but it isn't a differential, as we all know. What else could it be called other than a gear box? Any way, if the front and rear gear reduction ratios were the same, we would have a million posts bitching about how people can't get the front hubs to disengage. The best way to overcome this ratio difference is to put the machine in low range before the hill is attempted and gun the throttle momentarily. This causes the rear wheels to spin, and the front wheels to begin turning. This procedure needs to be done about a foot before the hill is attempted. I have learned from this forum topic that there is no sensor that activates the front wheels to engage. Polaris's advertisement of their 4WD is misleading in that they say that the system "senses" when the 4WD is needed. There is no sensing of wheel slippage as in some cars with traction control, and the system that is on the polaris atv's is much more failsafe and less complicated than we're led to believe. If there was a sensor, that would be something that could go out, and rendor the bike less reliable as far as 4WD engagement is concerned. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I love to figure out how things work. Recently, I got my bike in a bind in reverse with the wheels at full lock, and the front right cv joint went out. It was through replacing the joint that I learned about the internals of the hub. The best way to understand how the system works is to have one apart and have someone explain it to you. To sum this up, it is in fact the difference in ratios of the rear end to the front end that makes for the delay in engagement.

 

Thats exacly what I was just going to say thank you ,you saved me all that typing.YEAH well you belive that I'll sell you a HONDU with IRS CHEAP only ridden by little old lady to church on sundays when it was nice out. CM

 

You folks must pin the throttle when climbing off-cambers such as small vertical walls. Let me tell you how to do it. Put your machine in AWD way before you get there ease up to the ridge and keep applying pressure on the throttle.DONT GUN IT TO MAKE IT SPIN YOU WILL FLY OVER THE RIDGE,LAND HARD and then come and tell us how your quad lurches. Just take it easy.I do this EVERY time I ride. I ride one of the heaviest quads around (And I can climb like one of those Mountain goats up in the Rockies)670lbs. Plus me which equals 890 lbs. plus gear. I have pinned the throttle and went flying plenty of times, but then I learned to take it easy, right CHICKENman?

 

After reading these posts, and thinking about it. Wouldn't the cheapest thing to do be to drop tire size in the rear, or increase the front? This fouls the system into 4wd all the time the button is in or at least make the transaction happen faster. As long as your in dirt and not on pavement there should be no repercussion.

 

The tire size difference does work, I know a fella who has tried it. Problem with that is, Polaris doesn't have a differential in the front which means both front wheels are locked together when the hubs are engaged. So, with the front hubs engaged all the time it would be very hard to steer, very hard on the drivetrain and could be dangerous at higher speeds. Although if you are in the mud alot that may be what you want or need.

Jeff

 

425 Xpedition
thanks for the info. I will definitely get back to you for more instructions.

 

I find this subject fasinating because its an attempt to discuss the nitty gritty about polaris's awd technology. for all I know the engineers read all this and laugh? I experienced what prospector did about 1 year ago when I was down in a hole and my polaris jumped out of the hole. After a year now, I would say it happens when the rear wheels have no traction to begin with. all 4 wheels activated at the same time and it is a jump. I have also accidently found that superduty335's idea works well. use awd before you need it and just hold steady throttle pressure is what he is saying. my polaris also jumps less when
I do that. I think for several people above that listed some other odd things, there polaris probably did not activate the awd as it was close but the rear wheels handled the load.

My factory wired xpedition in reverse does not activate awd unless I hold in the reverse yellow button. I think its fasinating that xpedition425 has hot wired his xped. so its in awd right away in reverse and that he can start up his atv in any
gear. I could have used that a couple of times. I would like a monitor on my speedo somewhere that lets me know what gear i am in to.

Say Expedition, I have been gone for a week. Did you resolve yet your problem where too much water was shutting off your machine?? Was just wondering?. rangerchet

 

Going down such hills is where my Honda excells...I've gone down steep hills with shale'n loose rocks (with no hands...just to prove a point)in 1st gear with NO brakes that amaze my fellow Polaris friends.My chicken Kawi friend wont even try ...Prarie 400 brakes aren't the best!!
IF I could only go as good in DEEP mud!!
I guess the point is..every bike has a weak area...there is NO perfect Quad for every rider in every situation.
IT is FUN looking for one !!