Ok guys, heres the deal. last night we raced my 2000 scrambelr 400 against my friends raptor. He actually beat him twice but noe he said we were cheating cause we strapped down the suspension in the front and back. so were are having a rematch tommorow with no straps. What do people ussually do to drag race these things without standing it on the bumper??
any other quick tips for the big race.

so far i have an hpd trail pipe and jetting
hpd agressive clutch kit
and a twin air filter and ive take the rubber snorkle of the airbox

let me know if theres anything i can do quick and by tommorow to make it run better
thanks guys
Matt

 

Bet way I found is to turn (tilt) the throttle up some, then get up on the front of the seat,stand and lean forward. If you do that enough it will try to spin the tires instead of pulling the front end. It's a balance act. As soon as the wheeler gets moving you should be able to come back down on the seat and make your way to the back. If you get that thing ported you could go up one tooth on the front sprocket and that helps acceleration a lot.

 

Bubba, you said you can go up one tooth on th front sprocket? (13 to 14 teeth) Doesnt that give you a better top speed but take away some of your low end torque?

 

ok
update
weve got another day to work on it. So far we swapped the struts and springs from my trailblazer and jacked the preload up as much as possible on the rear. Any other ideas on quick ways to make it go better are apreciated.
come on guys, i know you can come up with something crazy
thanks
Matt

 

I have a 99 Sport with the race mod.I am running a 14t front and a 34t rear.Thats 1 tooth larger on front and 2 teeth smaller on rear.The gear ratio is perfect for me.

 

I always soften the rear springs so when you hit the gas the rear end sqats and sets the rear tires. What surface are you racing on?

 

Im racing on pavement.

 

i would reccomend setting the rear suspension as hard as possible(since you are racing on pavement traction isnt a problem), lean out the oil injection pump as much as possible, low rear tire pressure(or higher if it is a long race), high front tire pressure, check to make sure carb is opening fully via throttle cable, and i would take off anything on the bike that is not needed such as heel guards, tool kit, and maybe even cut the fenders if you had the time. i dunno it is always hard to explain if i think of something i will let you know.

 

The oil injection has aligning marks that shouldnt be deviated from. If reliability is an issue then ditch it and go to a premix at 40:1 with a good oil. A question arose earlier about the gearing. You should be able to go to either a 14 front or a 34 rear with the pipe and clutch kit. It WILL help the front end stay down but will also help accelreation and top end.Ideal situation when lowering the bike to drag race is to have the rear swingarm level with the pavement or dirt and have the front level to match. It cant get any better than that. But the Polaris design tends to keep a person from lowering it that far without modifications. If your on pavement the best thing is to have a wheelie bar.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

yes it has oil marks but before racing lean it out a bit and do plug checks for long runs at WOT. because these bikes can def. be running on less oil.