I wasn't sure what the manual meant by marking the position before removing the aramature. With respect to the Hilliard clutch? The outer pole? Since I removed it, I lost track of how it came off exactly. Is there a "right" way for it to be reinstalled?

Thanks,

Jim

 

The armature plate tabs should be engaged with the slots in the roller clutch cage

 

You seem to know about these Polaris Hubs. About a month ago I changed my CV boot on the left side of my Sportsman 500 HO. Everything worked fine when I put it back togehter, then suddenly I don't have any 4X4 on the that wheel. I took the hub back apart and can't seem to find anything out of spec. as far as the Hillard cluthc goes. My question is how much magnetic force is supposed to be in the hub when its engaged. I have very little magnetic field going on in the hub. To test I have lifted all 4 wheels of the ground and worked the throttle and tried the hillard with a screw driver while turng. I can easily pull the screw driver on and off the hub. Is this normal? Also as far as the armature plate goes I didn't pay any attention to marking it so it went back into the same postion. Anyway I put it the tab line up but there is some play should I bend them down so they make contac with the Hillard. How the heck does this magnet work does it lock the cam and rollers of the Hillard together? Thus preventing the cam inside the hillard from rotating? PLEASE HELP!!

Also my manaul isn't very specific in how the Hillard works. They say to test rotate the Hillard simply turn ti simulate engagement then release to simulate disengagement? Is the cam supposed to be able to turn inside the cage or not? I can turn mine it seems to have good tension and will spring back. Everything inside the hillard looks good and measure to spec. I just don't understand how this thing works.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

I think this might be a good laymans terms of AWD operation:

When AWD is engaged, the magnetic coil pulls the armature plate to it. The tabs on the armature plate that fit into the notches on the cage now have slight resistance ("drag"), holding the cage - which in return allows the cam (splined to the axle) to extend the rollers in the clutch once front wheel speed is less than that of the axles (all the axles are connected together - therefore maintain identical speeds). The extended rollers grab the hub and complete the AWD. In a Reverse AWD situation, power is not applied to the magnetic coil unless the curcuit is completed by the Override button.

A few things come to mind that could be your problem. Here are some reference pic's: Mag Coil and Hub/Clutch

1. Hub not torqued to spec's / damaged bearings.
2. Wrong Hub fluid
3. Spacer (#12 Hub/Clutch) absent / wrong place?? (this spacer completes the connection for tightening from the axle nut to the inner (strut) bearings) - I've seen people put them between the 2 strut bearings on assembly.
4. Air gap of the coil not right - should be .001" "height" difference between inner pole (lip of strut) and outer pole (#13 sleeve Mag Coil)
5. Damaged magnetic coil

 

rincon04671

My guess is that you do not have the correct gap between the inner and outer pole, basically what quadwrench addressed on #4. The purpose of the armature plate is to create a drag or friction when the magentic field is created. To do this it has to make contact with both the strut lip and the seal sleeve. It should have enough force that it is very difficult to pull the armature plate off of the magnet when the AWD button is pushed. The easiest way I have found to align the sleeve and the lip up is to use a brass drift to tap the seal sleeve partly off of the strut, then using a flat piece of metal, slowly tap the sleeve back on until the flat piece of metal touches both the sleeve and the strut lip.

 

I think Kingpin has said it right. That is exactly how I get the armature plate to properly 'stick' so that it can stop and engage the rollers over the cam to lock the hub.

 

thanks for the help guys
If you don't mind could you answer two more questions before I try to fix this darn thing again this weekend. When testing the the hillard. I can countinously turn the cam inside the cage. It turns hard but it will rotate 360 degrees and pushes the rollers out at everypoint of contact, is this supposed to be able to do this or is it supposed to just stop when it has extended the rollers out once? Also do you know of way to test to see if the electromagnet is working properly and receiving power. I ask this because the more I think about this the more I think I may have an electrical problem. The AWD quit working on this wheel when the reverse overide was engaged and I was backing up or at least trying too. And from time to time when I cut handlebars hard right the Hi Beam headlight will cut out.

Thanks for the help!

 

Sounds to me like you probably have an electric issue with the machine. When you flip the AWD switch on, the coil should turn into a magnet and should grab the armature plate. Test to make sure the coil is becoming magnetized when you flip on the AWD switch.

Those rollers that ride up over the cam get forced outward (so the whole assembly is increasing in diameter) into the inside of the hub... it wedges itself into the hub and locks the driveshaft to the wheel so that the wheel now receives power. So, no, you should not be able to lift and lower the rollers. When the assembly is together, the armature plate is locked by the magnet (coil), the cam is then held still, the rollers are forced to ride up the cam and then wedge themselves to the inside of the hub.

 

rincon04671

If you are asking if the cam in the clutch pack can make a full rotation without the hub installed, then I think the answer is yes. Without the hub there is nothing for the clutch to wedge against.

Your electrical problem sounds like a short. To diagnose the hubs, take the front cover off and test the circuit board where the hub wires connect. The hub wires are easy to spot, each hub will have a very thin brown wire and gray wire. The brown side will be 12 volt negative and the gray will be 12 volt posative. Take the wires off the circuit board and hook up a multimeter or test light. The tester should show 12 volts when the AWD button is pushed. Make sure the key is on, the run switch is on and the transmission is in forward. If the tester shows no power, but the AWD light is on, then you probably have a short in the wiring going from the AWD switch to the circuit board. If the tester shows no power and the AWD light is not on, then you have either a faulty gear position switch or a short in the wiring between the gear position switch and the AWD switch. You should also test each sides magnet. There should be 25 ohms resistence between the gray and brown wire on each side.

 

I was the one that started this thread. The problem turned out to be a oxidized electrical connection under the hood. I was tracing it as described in the previous post and found one of the connections of the gray and brown wires was oxidizd. I scrapped the wire clean and all of a sudden the aramature plate was strongly grabbed by the coil when the 4x4 switch was on. For all of you wondering how strong the magnet is when it is working, you'll know it when it works! It is a strong attraction.

Thanks to all who helped diagnose my problem. It's much more fun to drive a 4-wheeler in the snow of MT than a 3-wheeler!

Jim