I'm Not giving up yet!!! You have made me see the light!!
I will try the silver/gold spring. I would like it to engage at at lest 4000. with the stock clutch and the blue hpd spring and 10-56 weights ti engaged t 3500-3700 rpms.
It worked great untill the primary clutch got wore out!
Wouldn't I want to try to get the same engagemrnt and full shift out? I know that this is a proformance clutch But,Even if i ever get the same it should be Faster and shift harder. RIGHT!
With the 4200 or maybe 4500 engagement the quad gives me wiplash it just to hard of a engagement because of all the free running stall speed. Don't get me wrong I do tink it's CooL!!! but, just not practical for driving cross country racing.It maybe fun for jumping jumps with short runways and for drags. I need this for high speeds and some tight trail racing.
I was told by comet that the engagement on the polaris weight would be to far back neer the heel with would make it seem like I have a noch in the weights.That makes it engage higher because it has more cure to over come.
I have compared a polaris run weight witha polaris weight in the clutch and it dose seem to be back about 3/16 .
He also said that is why I didn't see that much differance wth weight changes.
Needless to say, i will get some Comet weights and try them.
Thanks and I'll keep in touch.
Do you undersand all that I have wrote,
dose it seem right?
Thank you
Matt

 

Makes perfect sense in what they're telling you. Looks like the comet weights might be the key to the whole thing. Order the 58 weights in comet then try it with the springs you have now. I would do that before ordering any more than you have to. By the time this is over I think you will have a much better understanding of all this. Bubba

 

dont let any one fool you the best spring to use with that pipe is the purple hpd primary and the violet secondary w/ 58 bushed weights trust me tried tons of set ups and this is the best period. also try a 12/38 gear ratio that spring has a 4500 stall to let the pipe engage when suppose to. all ido is set up clutches for polaris the comet clutch is trash no better than stck just stronger

 

I'm sorry to see you go thru all that,I have not been on atv forums for a while. I do have one of those.Give me a call next week and I'll tell you what i can,but basically here's the deal:
This clutch IS bigger,but you can not use the larger diameter ,as the sheaves hit together in the bottom before the belt is to the top of this primary,thus you will not get taller gearing unless you use A ) a wider belt like OLav told you ,or B)machine the bottom of the sheaves slightly to allow them to close farther. Myself,I prefer the hpd belt on that application so I cut the sheaves.I only cut enough to get 1/8 more on the radius of the clutch,as cutting enough to get all the way up would have resulted in less grip on bottom.I informed Comet of a few solutions,without ruining the shift angle,but you know....cut the bottom of your sheaves a bit if you want overdrive.

HERE is something important,pertaining to your problem regarding engagement. The SIDE gap(distance between the belt and sheave) is way too much.The moveable sheave comes out way too far on disengagement(away from the belt).,especially if you use snowmobile weights with not much heel underneath. At a disengaged state(siting there not running),the rollers on the spider TUCK the weights way under,this ,along with the big side gap (from the belt to the sheave) creat a very high engagement. Some see this as a huge problem,but i think it is fine as it makes the clutch very flexible. Here's how.
This clutch is basically the same as was on pre 95 Arctic cat snowmobiles with ARCTCO/COMET clutch.,as well as the early Comet 108 EXP replacemaent snowmobile clutch.They all used this large washer center bolt configuration. There were always available from snowmobile performance shops these white plastic engagement washers.They come in various thicknesses.You put these washers under the center bolt to close the belt SIDE gap ,and thus UNTUCK the flyweight. this ,in turn lowers engagement. The nice thing about all this is that you can fully utilise the primary spring preload ratings to control the shift the way you want. AND get whatever(almost) engagement you want from various springs. This can add a whole new dimension to controling upshift in the first 60 ft.
I've had those old shims in my box for years,and we do not stock them,but companies like Black Magic(theif river falls MN),D&D powersports ,Lowville NY, or AAen all probably have some. look for Arctic cat snow shops that have been around for a while,or maybe even Comet may have some.....but one guy I spoke to there at comet,didn't even seem to know what I was talking about.(and he called me because he heard I was testing the clutch).
HRP 4 cam racing snowmobile clutches use this same "shim on the center bolt" to control engagement,as well as others.
The comet is a good clutch,but not marketed properly,and is not a direct bolt in,without proper calibration.
I'm not trying to write a book here,especially since I can't type worth a crap,but I thought this may help you some in your efforts.
Dale Toole,Dalton Industries.

PS my first move would be to get some of those plastic shims,then go back and do like Bubba says. I would also sugest going back to your stock secondary clutch ,at least until you get the primary dialed in(always do the primary first).I will not post my opinion of the use of your new secondary for this application(that is if you are drag racing),as it could very well work well for your needs.

 

Helix, thank you for the info,I will try more testing of this clutch when I get some new comet weights.
As for cutting the shives to get thebelt to travel higher on the clutch,I have not cut it but, I would like to.What is the best way to do this? should it be cut by machine or can you just grined or fine it down .
anyway, it seems like too much work to get this thing tuned in and i'm kinda sick of it. I'l probley Just go by a new polaris primary.AT least I know that I'll get the right engagement and full shift out with the weights and springs I have now.
I feel that Comet should have informed poeple better about this clutch.All this tunning and they made it sound like you could just drop in the weights and springs from a polaris clutch and everything would be alright.
I don't have that much of a problem tunning a polaris clutch but this thing JUST SUCKS!!!!I DON"T HAVE MY ANGER LEVEL DOWN ENOUGH TO MESS WITH IT NOW BUT< MAYBE SOMEDAY I WILL.probley I'll just buy a new polaris one. WHO KNOWS
THANKS
MATT @ TEAM BRICKTUCKY RACING

 

Just because I like a high engagement and race a lot doesnt mean that it will work for him. Many people find it a rather harsh engagement. He does a lot of motorcross style racing and the lower engagement will help keep the motor power on tap instead of having to be just a light switch with the throttle. The biggest and baddest doesnt work for everyone because if it did them they wouldnt have so many selections. That spring does specify all out acceleration or drag racing. Not everyone knows that the bushed weights are the 10 series race style, so he might not even know that, although I know he does. Are you running that 12-38 with a tall tire? I sure hope so.Dont get me wrong, but you just came in here and started acting like you knew it all and no one else knew what they were talking about. Trial and error is what it's all about sometimes. Bubba

 

Way to tell him Bubba, You right though,it is up to the rider to find out what works for them. It would be great to just drag it all the time but, thats NOT me.I need this clutch to work for Cross country racing and mx tracks.
Sometimes the trail gets tight so, I ca't use a engagement of over 4000. I'll run into trees and off the trail!( not really) but, it would be hard to drive in those Trails.I'am using a srocket set up of 13/34 and 14/34 I also have 36 and 38 teeth rears.
I'M going to stick with the silver spring and wait for the comet weights. I'm getting 60s,58s,56s,54s all are ac cams.
With are the same as a polaris race weight(SO yes I do Know about the different weigh cruves)
THANK YOU BUBBA
I will keep you up to date on this thing!!!

 

Those white plastic shims for under the center bolt will fix your engagement problems and close up that belt gap,then you can use the weights you have with no problems.

 

Just scanned the posts quick. There are some teething pains with this clutch. I'll get back down to the shop later today and find which replacement spring and wts Comet sent me......the stockers stink, and like the others stated, you can't (unless you machine it) use the Polaris units on it.

 

I would like that very much Modquad,Thank you.
I took it out this weekend and found the engagement a little high,but it was a blast at top speed and I wasn't even getting the RMPs up to 7300 only 7000. It seemed as if it maybe fast on the top then the stock set up.Not really sure though ,I need time it against the stock.
I used a silver polaris spring and 10-58 weights.
That was close but, the engagement was like 4500.
Thats to high for me because sometimes I end up in tight trails. It was however, unbeaten in the drag races on a 100 yard strip. Very good feeling to beat worked banshees.
Anyway i still want to get it with a lower engagement and run up to 7300. I guess I'll try some comet weights and springs
Thank you for the info (all of you)
I'll keep you all informed
MATT @ TEAM BRICKTUCKY RACING