fiximatt,did you put engagement spacers on your primary?

 

NO I Didn't< WHAT ARE ENGAGEMENT SPACERS!
WHERE DO THEY GET PUT IN AND WOULD YOU HAVE TO USE A GRUNT TOOL TO TAKE IT APART FOR THESE SPACERS>

 

yall theory is true riding style is a way to get the clutchs for trails but remember one thing its not about riding style its about the pipes power engagements. if you put a sprring with a 2500 stall and the pipe rec. 3500 stall then you will bog down or be sluggish off bottom end .if you cant ride your bike in the trails because of engagement ,not to be a A HOLE but learn to ride. its about the motors powerband and pipe reccomendations. every pipe has its own needs

 

the spacers is to set the sheaves to belt clearance,anywhere from .020
to .030,you fit them behind the clutch cover.

 

I never Had any problems with the stock HPD set up.
I just wanted the same engagement and shift out with MORE agresiveness and more top speed. What is happening is that I have to settle with something close with in 3500 to 7400
until Iget it the same as before I got the comet clutch.
Some might want to know why I have not just gotten a new stock clutch . that is because I wanted more power and I already burn up 3 stock ones(alot of sand Here)Also the sponcer I have wanted me to try it out and report on what I thought about it( so far it's not great but ok) I really can't say want I think about it and The testing with the comet weights and springs has not started yet.
one last thing, The whole thing may be put on the back burner because of a blown rear shock and HPD's release of A race frame for the scrammy.

 

First of all, we do not need a 16 year old kid trying to tell us what we need to do. Yes I found out how old you are. You can set there and say all you do is set up Polaris clutches, but considering the age I doubt very very seriously if your clutch knowledge is up to par with mine or some others here. You cannot have a harsh engaging clutch when riding technical or some type of trails. The bike would be very hard to ride. A lower engagement will give smooth performance. You will lose some initial grunt and acceleration, but Matt is OK with that. Maybe you do not wish to sound like an A-hole, but you sure come off as one. Stay around awhile, use constructive criticism, and you will be taken seriously no matter what age you are. Right now you show your age.

 

Since we are on the topic of clutch tuning I'd like to run one by everybody. I go to Glamis alot and when I run up Olds hill and I have the throttle pegged, the motor seams to be turning too slow, like I have it in 4th when I should have it in 3rd. In the clutch what if I put the secondary spring to the 2-1 position (the next tighter setting) instead of the 2-2 setting? Will this keep the "gear ratio" lower longer to allow my RPMs to climb more? What about streaching a belt, how hard is that to do? If this doesnt work for me would I go with lighter primary weights so they dont shift out as fast? I dont ask to many question do I ? How do you like Aaens clutch manual, worth the purchase? What do you think is the best vacuum cleaner on he market right now? Thanks guys[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Boy, you really are on that vacuum cleaner thing,huh?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Cant help you on that one. On the clutching it definitely sounds like you need to lighten the weights just a touch. 2-2 setting should be plenty for any setup. If you go to the tightest setting you'll lose effenciency out of the clutch. Only enough belt pressure to do the job should be used. Backshifting up a hill is very important, so it does matter, but 2-1 on the setting would be of no use to you. The trickey thing about clutching is that you need lighter weights in this instance, but you need to make sure it doesnt raise the top operating RPM of the motor past the pipe operating range. The other thing would be to shave the head, port the motor,etc and gain a little power and that would make the difference up. More power means you can load the motor faster, harder and it wont pull the RPMs down. And by the way, Aaen's clutch book will open your eyes A LOT to the world of the CVT. You'll read it through a few times and then it will all make sense.Best money you can spend if you like to do your own work.Bubba

 

BuBBA,THank you for your support on my issues with polarotex700.but,enough of that childs game.
Anyway, I just wanted to back up what you said about the clutch tunning handbook.It will open your eyes to the world of cvt.BUT<after reading it more then two times there is still some small things I don't get,that aren't really talked about or just touched apon.Overall it is the best support (besides this forum) you can have.

THANK YOU
MATT @ Team Bricktucky


YOU CAN KILL ANIMALS IN THE WOODS "THATS O.K IN N.J"
RIDE A QUAD AND YOUR A CRIMINAL "WHAT THE FU(K IT'S ONLY DIRT"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
ALL OF THIS FROM A STATE THAT IT COST MORE TO GET CAUGHT ON A QUAD IN THE FOREST, THEN IT DOSE TO GET CAUGHT DRINKING AND DRIVING IN A CAR ON THE ROAD

 

Where are you guys buying the comet weights?
Polaris / HPD springs will work fine thought right?
Im on the fence about buying a comet clutch, my stock one is toast and I can get a comet cheaper than the stock $214 as aposed to $250 for the Polaris.
Aaen Perf said to use Snowmobile weights, and I would not have an ingagement problem. 50gram and a red spring. lighter weight because the heel is smaller than an ATV weight. I see in this post that Snowmobile may make the problem worse.
Go for it or buy Polaris?
Does this calibration sound like a good starting point?