they arent bad.. just a little rough.. i just wanna make em really smooth.. i assume it will help a little and if it doesnt take to long then why not..

 

It will help a lot... you got it MY b!tch...j/k[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]


And your welcome bro anytime[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

Unless you know what you're doing......keep the Dremel in the case. If you're uncertain, I'd give HPD a ring, Darryll has a ton of flowbench time on this motor. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

thats what i was wondering... can it screw up my ports if i just sand em down and smooth em out... i dont wanna send my motor out.. seems like alot of cash for not alot of work.
maybe ill call him up and see what he says.
thanks.

 

Hozed, you wont mess anything up if you use some common sense and look things over real good. The first thing to do is pop the valves out. Usually right where the valve seats are at there is a mismatch between the iron and aluminum. Being careful not to nick where the valve seats in, but blend it in all nice where there is no flow obstructions. In basic porting on a 4-stroke that is all your doing. Remove any "goombas"as I like to call them, or casting flaws and bumps in the tracts and just make everything a nice smooth flow for air. Think to yourself if I pushed air through that hole what would slow it down or make it become turbulent. That would be porting 101. What you dont want to do is change the factory flow direction or change how the air moves, like cutting in the top or bottom of a port wall without a flowbench to check results. That's where the R&D comes into play. Work the exhaust side nice and smooth and give it a glass appearance if possible.Carbon wont stick to it at all if it's slick as glass. You dont want a slick finish on the intake side. Leave it "as rough" appearance so the gas stays atomized in the fuel. If it's slick there then the fuel will drop out of suspension and form droplets and that hurts performance really bad. You can get a $20 air grinder at Wal-Mart or similar, and you can get cartridge mandrels and grit rolls from 40 all the way to 600 at an industrial supply place. A complete dremel setup will also work, but takes longer.Dont be afraid to try. Like I said some common sense will yield you good results. Hope that helps,Bubba

 

Bubba is right on the money....

 

There is a "pocket" in this head, there has been some toying w/ filling it. Call Darryll to make sure you don't accentuate anything that might harm your performance. For general guidelines, what Bubba stated is good to follow, but there are specifics here.

 

Very time consuming but worth the time if done right. I just got done with a set of Banshee cylinders and wow what a difference. I think that I have about 6-10 hours in it. I took my time but if you are not a pro take the time these things are aweful expensive to replace if it goes bad.

 

Exactly why the flowbench is a good thing. Many times epoxy or Devcon or even welding has to be done to achieve the best results, but if you just "clean it up" and dont affect flow characteristics, then you cant do anything but help. A little bit of time goes a long way. Ken, I know they you are still not sure of my abilities and stick to the big companies for referrals and I can certainly understand that. But I can promise you I dont do hack work and only try to help out. I ported car cylinder heads for almost 9 years before getting into the 2-cycle stuff. I's sorry masser, I is only trying to help.

 

Masser nothing. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I'm just trying to get him to error on the side of caution. I can just see the visual now, just after watching the latest edition of American Choppers....out comes the Dremel, it's set on high, and the sparks fly. Doh!