FULL PULL
#11
#12
FULL PULL
Bigbad, ....thanks for the plug.
I left a few general tips, on the post "Polaris owner you just got to see this", if anyone's interested
There's a lot of thing you can do, some depend on the rules. A few thing that I have read on this post that I disagree with somewhat are. Doesn't mean your wrong and I'm right, it's just my opinion.
Weight placement, always get your weight, both body and weights, are far forward as possible. The sled will put weight on the back wheels and try to take if off the front, so every inch counts. This is on 4x4 of course, 2 wheel drive weight on the back.
Never use a cleaves to hook on to, the chain will always go to the lowest point, Make a hitch that when you hook the chain, it can't go to a lower position. Also, make a hitch, so that when you hook, it is as close to the axle as possible. theory being, when you start pulling, the sled puts weight on the rear of the bike, squats suspencion and tires, so the farther you are hooked behind the axle the more the chain is lowered during the pull. You want a hitch that will pick up on the sled pan.
Tires, you want tires that will give traction, but not so much that you can't turn your tires. You want all the wheel speed you can get without looseing traction. Also, You don't want tires that will dig alot of dirt, because you have to pull that dirt ahead of the pan on the sled, like a snow plow.
If anyone needs help when it come pulling time, PM me, I would be glad to help, if I can...if anyone has good ideas, I'm always listening.
Good luck guy's, but always remember, there Prairie's lurking out there....lol
I left a few general tips, on the post "Polaris owner you just got to see this", if anyone's interested
There's a lot of thing you can do, some depend on the rules. A few thing that I have read on this post that I disagree with somewhat are. Doesn't mean your wrong and I'm right, it's just my opinion.
Weight placement, always get your weight, both body and weights, are far forward as possible. The sled will put weight on the back wheels and try to take if off the front, so every inch counts. This is on 4x4 of course, 2 wheel drive weight on the back.
Never use a cleaves to hook on to, the chain will always go to the lowest point, Make a hitch that when you hook the chain, it can't go to a lower position. Also, make a hitch, so that when you hook, it is as close to the axle as possible. theory being, when you start pulling, the sled puts weight on the rear of the bike, squats suspencion and tires, so the farther you are hooked behind the axle the more the chain is lowered during the pull. You want a hitch that will pick up on the sled pan.
Tires, you want tires that will give traction, but not so much that you can't turn your tires. You want all the wheel speed you can get without looseing traction. Also, You don't want tires that will dig alot of dirt, because you have to pull that dirt ahead of the pan on the sled, like a snow plow.
If anyone needs help when it come pulling time, PM me, I would be glad to help, if I can...if anyone has good ideas, I'm always listening.
Good luck guy's, but always remember, there Prairie's lurking out there....lol
#13
#14
FULL PULL
You want a hitch that will pick up on the sled pan.
#15
FULL PULL
Doctortubo;
You always want to get your hitch as high as possible, we have abjustable ones, that we can screw up and down to make up for the air pressure we running.
Most rules have a limit for height, so all bikes are equal, our rules state 14" to the hook point.
Be as high as possible and as close to the axle as possible.
You always want to get your hitch as high as possible, we have abjustable ones, that we can screw up and down to make up for the air pressure we running.
Most rules have a limit for height, so all bikes are equal, our rules state 14" to the hook point.
Be as high as possible and as close to the axle as possible.
#16
#18
FULL PULL
Originally posted by: honda450es4x4
Shotgun;
But the higher you are hooked the more it will try to lift the frount end wont it?
Chuck [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
Shotgun;
But the higher you are hooked the more it will try to lift the frount end wont it?
Chuck [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
yes, the higher the more lift on the front end.....that why you need to be as close to the axle as possible.
Think of it as a teter toder...with the axle being the middle... the rear being one end and front being the other, if you put weight out on the end (rear) you'll pick up the same amount of weight on the other end (front)...but if you moved the same amount of weight in next to the center point, it wouldn't pick up much on the front.
So the ideal thing to do is hook high as possible, (so as to pick up on pan, put more weight on rear, which is traction, and less friction on the pan which will make it drag easier), but you want to do it without taking much weight off the front...so put hitch close to axle. Also as I said above, you want to get all the weight you can, both body weight and added weights as far ahead as possible. What this does is act as a counter weight for picking up on the pan and adds traction to the front.
Remember, the pan will put weight on the back wheels and try to take if off the front. If you look at my weight box on the front of my prairie. it is made so you put tractor weights in it on there side. so all the weight is out as far forward as it can go ( our rules say no more than 12 inches front any stock part)...every inch makes a difference of a few feet of pull. If I layed them flat on my racks or hung them off the front, I wouldn't get as much weight forward as I do now.
Hope this helps. Sorry about makeing it so long, but really good questions.
#19
#20
FULL PULL
Get a clutch kit that will help for bottom and mid range pulling power. Also size wont matter so get a 25inch tire that will get good traction. Also ask around some other forums and pratice pulling with logs and stuff so you know what amount of gas and stuff to give it when starting out. Wish you the best of luck man.