could you tell what was making the pop noise? Just the bushing or was it the chain? belt hiting the cover something. I know my bushings are not good in the rear, but my belt is shot so I don't know if the pop was just the bushings or not.

I spoke with Ritter today. He seams to think that I didn't preload my rear clutch correctly when I did my buttons. I am 90% sure I did, because it took me 2 times. The first time I just put it back in the second time I read on the boards that you are supposed to preload the spring I think 1/3 trun. I think I set it at the 2-2 position as well.

He asked if my belt was hitting the cover. I told him it was, and he said it shouldn't. I thought their was a little normal belt rubbing on the cover. I know my cover is now shot. It is cracked up and has a big hole in it now. I think the belt came appart a little and the strings got cought up in the cracks of the cover making them bigger and pulling the belt appart.

I did buy a new belt, clutch cover, rear bushings for the swing arm.

How in the Hell do you change those bushings in the swing arm. Is it as hard as it looks? I tooks like I have to take the inner clutch cover off to get the the bolt on the left side. Any helpful hints or tricks would be great.

 

ok....as for the clutch cover issue, mine used to do that too.....it is just from heat, they get hot and warp the cases(inside and out), no big deal other than money. Sometimes you have to loosen bolts and tighten bolts in the case to make your clutch fit the cover too.

The swing arm bushing thing isn't that hard(I used to do this weekly)....Take off the chain, take off clutch cover, clutches, and rear cover, that will access you to the bolt of the swing arm, on the other side, remove the brake caliper, and you will get to the other bolt(this info is all on non concentric models) now hold the bolt with a wrench/socket, and the nut inside with a wrench, now pull the swing arm out. It might be easier to reach the swingarm nuts from the skidplate side(under) too.....also helps to have someone helping you too. Ask if not clear.

 

Sounds easy until you talk about removing the clutches. The secondary is cake. The front I don't have that special puller. Does the front have any adjustment to it? What I mean is if I get it off is it going back on in the same place? I hear alot about clutch allignment. Or is that done with the engine mounts? Tweaking the engine and trans until they are perfect and 10 in. appart center to center.

Thanks
Ryan

 

The front clutch is tapered and will go right back on with no problems. Torque the front clutch bolt to 45ft/lbs. I use a large wood dowel to hold the clutch with and gently torque it down. Search the threads, I think maybe it was a 3/4 fine thread for the clutch to remove it? I dont know really because I have the tool and havent paid attention. Someone will answer that one for you. Check the swingarm bolts to make sure they aren't loos and sloppy. The non-concentric drives were notorious for loosening up. I had to end up loctiting and tack welding the head of the bolts to keep them from backing out. The bike would kind of jerk to one side when taking off. Dont forget to service the clutches. You need to blow them with compressed air, and use some 320 sandpaper and take the shiny off the clutch facing. The clutch has to slip but also has to grip to a certain extent. Being a 97 model the clutch could be worn smooth out too.Good luck,Bubba

 

Many you guys are great. I will get a bolt for the front clutch. That way I won't mess up the threads. YOu are correct in the surface. They look almost chrome. I am guessing that isn't good. Thanks for the loc-tight idea on the swing arm bolts. I don't have a welder, so loc-tight will have to do.

I have all sorts of automotive pullers. I am sure one of them will pull the front clutch. (with the bolt on) Now does that bolt put the clutch back on?

Thanks guys
Ryan

 

Ryan, when you remove the front clutch bolt the inside hole of the clutch itself is threaded. The puller is not much more than a long threaded rod that screws into the clutch and against the crank until it pops it off. If you try to use an automotive puller on the outside or anywhere else while pusing on the bolt YOU ARE going to break something. You have to remember that the clutches are a precision balanced unit and must be treated and handled with extreme care. The tapered fit clutch is only held on by the bolt but is very hard sometimes to come off. Someone once said here that a 3/4 trailor hitch ball shaft will screw into it and can be used. Please only do it the right way or it can end up costing you a clutch. The actual puller only costs in the $20 range. It is the same for the snowmobiles too.

 

Bubba is correct it is 3/4 fine thread,just remember if you do try the trailer ball.Make sure the base of the trailer ball doesnt bottom out against the clutch,this is why you will have to put something in there for the end of the shaft to push against.The trailer ball shaft isnt long enough by itself.

 

Update, I have the primary clutch off. I pulled the inner clutch cover. I see the bolt that holds the swing arm. I try to tighten this bolt. all it does is spin some weard looking washer on the inside of the swing arm. Am I going to have to grab some channel locks and grab that washer to tighten everything down.

Sorry for the questions. I do have the polaris build bood. However the little sales kid I bought it off of must have sold me their own. Or just took chapters out of it. I am missing the rear swing arm chapter, and the brake chapter so far. I did read about the clutches, and removal. It just says to use the removal tool and gives you a part #. The bolt trick worked for me this time but I think I will invest in a tool or I will make one better than what I did.

 

good luck man i hope you get this all figured out im going on vacation tomorrow and when i get back i will be going through the same thing....think i will order that clutch puller before i go...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Good idea, if you read my other post, I would. I cant believe I bent a grade 8 bolt. This is the bolt that I used to push against the crank, in between the big 3/4 in fine thread grade 8 bolt.