Ok, we replaced our own cv boot for the first time, took us forever lol. Anyway, it was the third boot to go in the past two months. We dont do any tough riding, some water every once in a while, mostly on packed trails. We made the dealer ensure that we had a rear boot, but after installing it we realized it had like a neck, so it is a front installed on the rear...
How durable are those supposed to be?? I just looked at my 250 and one of the front boots is ripped now. Polaris said that the rear a arm skid plates would help a lot, but any ideas why our rear boots would keep shredding open on one side??

 

just go to gorilla axles and get the tele # buy the new thermo plastic boots just a bit more pricey you can get them in red or black work great almost 2 times as strong as your OEM boots

 

Are the neoprene boots much stronger than OEM? Because they cost like half as much as the thermoplastice ones.

 

I just started to have the same problem with my 2002 Sportsman 700. I had to replace both of the front boots because of sticks, but now I noticed that one of the inboard rear boots ripped. I know I didn't put a stick through it because I checked it over before the ride and I didn't go through any brush. I have also noticed that it ripped right where the seam is on the boot. I took a look at the opposite seam and there is a small crack starting to form there also. The boot on the opposite side looks like it is going to rip soon too. The only reason I can think of that caused this is that I'm light, and I don't compress the suspension enough, so the CV joint is always at a severe angle and streching the boot. I don't really know what else to do other than replace them. Good luck with your machines. I thought I would let you know that you're not the only one.

Foolish Farmer

 

does the dealer not cover cv boots or do they but only in the first six months of warranty

 

I just changed a CV boot, too...it was really fun.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

The problem that I have seen, is that if the boot is installed "kinda stretched out / elongagated" (hard to explain on a PC), it puts a lot of stress on the boot as it rotates. Did that make any sense?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Whitewater- i think i know what you mean... like too far down the axle so it is stretched when it is on the long side of the angle.
foolishfarmer- that weight thing is exactly what i've been thinking. when i sit on the atv, the back only compresses if i hit a BIG bump, the back seems way too stiff. My boots are always completely ripped open on one side, though seemingly without reason...

 

hey FoolishFarmer how come you have 0 posts?

 

woah that is weird lol

 

OK i was changing the boot on my 250 today... The service manual told me to disassemble the hub to get at everything. Did i have to do this? i realize now that i probably could have just popped off the cv while it was in the hub. After i had it changed, i realized i had put the cv back on with out first sending the end of the axle thru the shock tower, so i think i have to undo and redo it [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]. Any tips for putting the hub back together? and just fill it with atf fluid (however full it should be?) also, how freely should the cv move? mine takes a little push to get it to move, but its smooth with no noise. thanks