Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

About to start re-installation on 300. Any tips?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 3, 2004 | 02:24 PM
  #1  
GST97's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Default About to start re-installation on 300. Any tips?

OK, just got my cylinder back from RCR today, looks great.
I just installed the rings on the new wiseco... looking at the directions it says something about an exhaust bridge, and if you have one to drill 2 holes in the piston. I am assuming this does not apply to me?

It seems to be a pretty straight forward process. The removal went simple.
I have all the old gasket material removed and a new Cometic kit to reseal it up with.

Now from what I understand, is I should just lightly coat everything in 2stroke oil and put together and torque everything down.
Will I need to check torque after the ATV is running a while?

Any tips you guys have is appreciated since this is my first time putting one back together [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Thanks,
-Chris
 
Reply
Old Sep 4, 2004 | 08:54 PM
  #2  
BayouBlaster's Avatar
Range Rover
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Default About to start re-installation on 300. Any tips?

Well here's my 2 bits. I will NEVER use anything but Polaris gaskets. I'm not saying they are the best out there, but I have used aftermarket gaskets on the last rebuild on my Scram and the base gasket failed miserably and I had to end up tearing it down again. Of course, the aftermarket base gasket was a metal type and the Polaris one isn't. Yes , it is a good idea to retorque the base after you have run it a while. Polaris advises to add additional oil to the gas for the breakin period. When you go to put the cylinder back on, if you put 2 srtips of wood across the top of the tranmission and push the piston down until it rests on the wood, it will keeep the piston in place while you lower the jug onto it. Don't forget to turn the engine over until you get the air out of the cooling system ( you have to remove the purge screw on top of the head to let the air escape). Once you have it back together, you can check fpr air leaks by spraying (WD-40 I think?) around head, jug, and carb and listen for a change in rpms. It never hurts to check and clean the carb while you have it down either. I alsways went back with new gaskets for the reeads too. Good luck with the rebuild.
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2004 | 12:35 AM
  #3  
GST97's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Default About to start re-installation on 300. Any tips?

Well, I have it together already. installation went pretty easy.
This is a 300, so no coolant to get the air out of [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

I have the gas also premixed about 50:1 which does make it smoke a little bit.
I did a few breakin runs today.
Happy that it doesn't make any funny noises and idles real well.
I am going to check tomorrow before I ride it that everything is still torqued down to spec.

I did check around the base and head gasket and there is no visible exhaust escaping. I will try spraying WD40 around it to see if it changes anything... probably would just see it bubble. water should do the same thing I would think.

-Chris
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jgreerberube
Kawasaki
7
Jun 21, 2015 02:27 PM
Bassassasian101
Buying an ATV
3
Jun 10, 2015 06:23 AM
leenover
Chinese Quads
4
Jun 5, 2015 09:50 PM
Schneider
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
7
Jun 4, 2015 11:37 AM
1000gade
ATV Videos
0
May 27, 2015 12:37 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:56 AM.