Hi to all.

I'm new to the site. Been watching it for only a month or so.
I'm pretty sure someone here will give me the info I'm looking for.

I have 2001 500 HO. It has about 2500 miles on it and about 260-270 hours. Bone stock except for front and rear Bear claws. It recently started to creep while in gear at idle. I cranked the idle down which did nothing except crank the idle down. I pulled the driven clutch and removed and replaced the belt. After re assembly it no longer creeps. The power seems kinda milk toast at take off but eventually gets moving pretty well. I cleaned alot of old belt dust out of the drive and driven clutch. Was the creeping a sign of a worn belt or was maybe all the belt dust screwing something up. Any ideas?

 

welcome to the forums!

maybe look inside the secondary(driven) clutch and inspect your buttons? they may or may not be causing the problem, but i bet they need replaced anyways if you havent done it yet.

X

 

it could have something to do with your shims. if there is not enough space your clutch will not open enough and with grab the belt causing it to jump fowards

 

Thanks for the ideas. I guess I'll keep riding it thru the rest of bird season out here and see if it happens again. Maybe just cleaning out all the belt dust free'd up something that was getting sticky. If I get another 2500 miles on it then I'll retire the ol gal and get the new sp1650 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] . Just imagine......

 

If cleaning it out seemed to make a difference, that was probably the problem. It would not be a bad idea to inspect both clutches after bird season though. They don't need a whole lot of maintenance but if you let something go too long that should have been replaced, it can get very costly.

 

Creeping is a common problem with the 01s (I have one) especially at or about 2500 miles. A new belt will fix it for a short while but the real problem is the EBS clutch. You can check this by removing the clutch cover, run the rpm up to approx 3000 rpm enough to make the belt ride up the shivs then let go back to idle. At idle the belt should drop onto the EBS clutch with clearance on each side of the belt. If the belt is touching the engine side shiv you have worn EBS shims. (If you have replaced the belt already try this with the old belt)
This being the case remove the belt and get a hold of the EBS clutch slide in back and forth there should be a little bit of play but not a lot. I'm sorry I don't have the exact numbers at hand. The reason for the sloppiness is Polaris build these units with teflon shims and they wear prematurely allowing the EBS too much play which in turn allows the belt to jump a grove and causing drag against the engine side shiv. When this happens it is very difficult if not impossible to change/select a gear. When buying new shims make sure you get the upgraded shims as some dealers like to have you come back for the same repair in the not to distant future.
What I did to fix mine was to remove the drive clutch remove the weight etc then the two shivs to your dealer and have him replace the shims at each end of the EBS clutch. A special tool is needed to split the shivs and that is why you need the dealers help. The cost is very small, $10 for the shims and $13 (approx) to replace them. Once you get it back from the shop reinstall it with an new belt and your problem should be fixed. If you installed a new belt when you had it apart you will need to get another one as this one will be worn at the bottom.
I hope my ramblings are of some help to you.