I just purchased a new 05 tld pred yesterday,,, and my question to you is my dealer said i should change the oil after the 1st hour I use it and then 10 hours after that,, is this the right way to do it or is this to early for oil change and when breaking in the tld are you allowed to get on the gas and drive it hard or do u have to take it easy for a while thanks.........................
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I was told the same thing...I changed my after the 1 hour, then I changed it again about 5 hours....just to be safe. I rode mine for the 1 hour easy, then I started getting on it alittle. I don't ride my quad hard anyway. Some say take it easy and others say ride it hard....I guess I was in the middle.

 

Just mt 2 cents here, but, ride it at a nice pace varying the rpms throughout the entire rev range. However, don't hold it at WOT. I guess my way of looking at it is, when a quad, bike, sled, etc. is put together out of the crate, some dipwad $7/hr. grease-monkey is taking it outback & thrashing it for a few minutes for the "test ride", so..... no matter how well you may treat it for break in, your friendly dealer has already helped you out in this process.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

 

Worth a read. I didn't see that that info when I broke mine in, but perhaps when I change the motor I'll give it a shot.

 

Being a ex-racer and having many different motors built and broken in, make sure you follow a break-in.....

- do not go past half throttle for the first hour.....change the oil after the hour, this will remove any deposits and crap left over from manufacturing...

- do not heat the motor up, extended periods of high rpm's for the first 10 hours, best that you do not run it long periods of time either, change the oil after 10 hours of use again....

- if you want proper seating of your piston rings....run the machine when new for about 10 minutes and let it cool.....then take it out again for another 10 minutes and let it cool....do this about 5 or 6 times....after this is done, do the first oil change.....

again, don't run high rpm's for the first 10 hours...i know you will want to, but wait at least 5 hours and don't run it high rpm's for a long time until after you get past 10 hours....do the oil change and then go pound the crap out of it...lol....

dave

 

the breakin period is for the pistonrings to seat against the cylinder wall(reason the manual says take it easy is for warrenty purposes) ive broken in a few engines, and for every single one of them(never had any internal problems with the engines), i let it warm up fully(very important) then drove it like i was goin to drive it. only way the piston rings will seat properly against the cylinder wall is with a load under the engine(like hard acceleration) but always remember never do that with a brand new cold engine. most manufacturers put there products on the dyno and just give'r crap for the very first time the engine is started at the factory


mototuneUSA has many break in articles, give them a read and then decide.
http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm




http://mototuneusa.com/the_need_for_speed.htm
go halfway down the page, he has a few pictures of many pistons from engines broken in how he says should be done.


http://mototuneusa.com/future_horsepower.htm
go halway down the page and you will see the comparison from how the manual says break it in compared to his method. its interesting...

 

BULL$HIT.....

that is not the way to break in a motor....it will 'BREAK'-in alright....when the pistons go too fast and heat up too much, they do not have time to seat themselves....running fast and hard is BULL$HIT.....do not listen to this person....if he wants to do it, then let him do it......it wouldn't say what it says in your manual on how to break it in and every motorcycle manufacturers owner's manuals on how to break it in if it wasn't right....

there is a technique that we've used to break-in motors on other machines, but mostly impossible on a ATV with a belt.....you get at a low to midrange RPM and then apply the brakes and rev the motor to near full throttle for approximately 5 seconds....this will help seat the rings on machines that have poor honing or too much cross-hatch....since this isn't possible on most atv's....you don't do it

 

lol..callen BS on my method? first, did you even bother reading those articles...or were you too closed minded to even consider the method i stated? the bottom two links provide actual picture proof between the (manual says breakin) which has heatleakage which burnt oil to the piston(due to not being seated properly) to how his method(with just carbon on the top of the piston, and no burning of the oil to the piston)...obviously you dont just sit there revving the engine in neutral(that does more harm than good) but the only way you can get proper piston ring seating against the cylinderwall(before the honing/cross hatched pattern is worn off completely) is to have the engine under a load while revving up(otherwise known as riding) ive broken in every single engine ive owned that way and no problems as of yet(broke in my 00 sprtsmn 500 this way) sold it when it was at 3500miles approx. with no engine related problems at all. when you do it this way, you want good PSI in the combustion chamber, then you gotta make sure the piston rings seat fully/properly. ohh, and like i said before, pretty much every manufacturer puts every engine to the test, they dont just sit there goin to 4k RPMS and stop, they red line it....also, (quote from the site)

which actually makes sense, since if they put *break in engine with hard accleration(load on the engine) which pretty much means ride fast, do you think they would actually put this in there manuals...think of all the lawsuits against a manuf. if this was the case when someone were to wipeout and break half the bones in there body, or someone dies...think about it...

ps elkbow..."think outside the box" dont conform to what everyone says like a drone...


....waiting on your reply, this is a fun topic to debate because some people just wont open there minds to other possibilities.

 

break it in how u want....i do the break it in like ur gonna ride it method cuz it makes the most sense to me

 

Ride it hard. We ride the crap out of them in the dunes from day one.. Let it warm up to operating temp and let it rip.. I believe the Moto mans ways. We have never had any issues w/ many brands of "ride it like you stole it" from day one.......... "Easy break in" is a bunch of balony. Ever see a streetbike come of an assembly line. The last thing they do is run it on a dyno through the gears all the way to redline to make sure it runs and sounds right and falls into the little window of hp and torque that particular model should perform..