exactly..how the rings gonna seat in a cold engine?? they gotta warm up to expand to the walls and seat

 

I know i'm new to your guys's circle, but... like I stated above, I've been into the powersports scene for long enough to know that if you are nieve enough to think that your "own special way" of break-in is the best & only way you are just that.....nieve. From long before you even had wet dreams of that new toy you were going to buy, some one else has already done their part in that "NEW" engines break-in.
A.K.A. beat the living crap out of it after final assembly. ALSO, before anyone's tempers or egos get in the way, remember ask 10,000 people this question & you'll get 20,000 different answers.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

very important thing to do if you break in riding like you want to...let the engine warm up to operating temps(like mentioned before) before you let er rip. if you dont, you will be regretting it.

 

My source is from somebody who worked as an engineer that used to work in BMW's motorcycle R&D department and designed the ATK 450 piston. This is from a guy who says move the rings up 5 thousands for this reason and shave the piston a couple of grams this much here for this reason, ect.

 

i read the articles in the links above, some good information, but some others I don't agree with. I had my motors built by one of the top motorcycle builder in the US...

I've seen people pound their vehicles from the start and they don't last nearly as long....as far as seating in the cold...nothing is cold when the motor is running.....the main thing you want to stay away from is the high RPM's....heat isn't the problem, the high RPM's are...

but, you can always break in your motor the way you feel like it, I'll do it the right way.....thats why I never have motor problems....

do some searching on the internet, you see plenty of articles on motor break-in...for vehicles, motorcycles, ATV's, etc....

my Nissan PU has 266,000 miles on it and runs like it was new.....

 

where in wisconsin do u live, I live in Hartford , I was just wondering ,, i dont see to many people from wis in here talk to u later

 

I would assume you are referring to me??? I live in the Monroe area, about 25 miles South of Madison. Finally getting some good ice, can't wait to go play![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img] However, with highs of 5-8* for the next 3 days I doubt I can talk anyone other than myself to go. I ride snowmobiles so cold for the most part doesn't bother me. But next week it's supposed to moderate to the 20-30's.....perfect. How 'bout you, near here? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] Never mind, just looked at your post again after I posted, duh[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

elk...please explain why you think high RPMS are bad(they are if your just revving the engine in neutral without a load on the engine) you think your car wasnt strapped to a dyno after it was built at the manufacturer, and then redlined to make sure everything is working properly(factories do this to start the seating process for the piston rings) also, if you notice all the automobile performance engine manufacturers who refurbish old blocks and rebuild them, they get them to operating temps, then gun it on the dyno after there built.

if you want an engine that isnt running at its peak, then by all means do what the manual says...you want an engine that performs stronger(higher PSI in the combustion chamber) and no oil buring on the piston then make sure you get that engine to operating temps before you give er. crap(dont have it maxxed out stupidly) but give it that hard accleration you so desire on the ATV(this is the trick)....its been proven that mototuneUSA's method works, and doesnt cause engines troubles out on the race track(where those bikes are punished to shiat compared to how most people ride) also, you think all those race teams follow the owners manual when they break in there $10, 000+ motors? hell no.