why are you getting your fan, radiator and your AWD fixed/replaced?

 

I was backing out of a mud hole and got stuck. When my buddy tried to winch me out, he got me about half way ot and it just started dragging his machine into mine. That should have been my first clue to look for something wrong. Well, I didn't, so after a second quad hooked to me and they both pulled me out, I realized why I was so stuck. There was a probably 4 inch round wooden post of some kind sticking into my fan and radiator. When my back wheel went over it, it caused it to pop up and fit perfectly in between my axle and strut. It broke the fan off on two mounts, and put a mother of a dent in the radiator. Radiator doesn't leak, but it's a brand new quad and I'm not cutting any corners fixing it.
First lesson learned, if one quad can't pull me out, there's something wrong somewhere. It's a $800 lesson, but the good news is my insurance paid for all but $100, which is my deductible.
I figured that on a $6000 quad, they'd buck me on $800 for a few parts and labor charges, that's about 15% for two parts, but it was really painless. I called my agent first, told him what happened, he said I had collision coverage, and it sounded like a collision to him and all I needed was an estimate. When I got it, I took it to the adjuster, knowing he'd blow his lid. He looked at it, said since it was "so cheap" he'd just go ahead and write the check for the repairs right then. Two days after the accident I had a check for $700 from them, for the cost minus my $100 deductible. I will never ride without insurance again, now all my friends are looking in to it after my experience. It only costs me $154 a year, and my agent said this claim will not affect the premium at all.
Second lesson learned, insurance it worth every penny.

 

my 05 700 efi does the same thing. you have to back up to make the awd dissengage. i can deal with that as long as it engages when i need it to.

 

this has been posted all over the internet

I copied it for you all to read

it may help you understand what is happening in your front end,,,,,,maybe not

here goes...,,,,,,




I wrote to Matt Cowen, the Engineering Product Manager at Hilliard Corporation and asked a few questions about the Hilliard Overrunning Clutch used in the Sportsman ATV's. www.hilliardcorp.com/mcdboc2.php3
First my questions, followed by the response from Hilliard with their permission to share the information:
1) I regularly engage the AWD clutch for 4-wheel engine braking by causing the rear wheels to slip in reverse, stopping, then putting the machine in forward before descending the hill. Will this harm the clutch at all?
2) When I perform the above maneuver the clutch remains engaged, even while powering forward, until I switch off the AWD engaging coil. Is this normal operation for the clutch?
3) Is there a way to engage the clutch prior to wheel-spin, allowing me on-demand AWD?
----
Mr. Anderson,
The condition that you are asking about above is called "wedging". What you are doing is locking the rolls in the reverse profile of the clutch (it is a bi-directional clutch set-up) and proceding in the forward direction thus not allowing the clutch to overrun (which is the normal condition). This in turn locks up the drive train and makes the system steer like a fully locked differential. This condition is
advantageous if going down a steep hill becuase it will only allow the front wheels to move as fast as the drive train. This will fully utilize the engine brake because when going downhill the weight distribution of the bike goes to the front end and that is where you want the majority of your traction.

This "wedging" will not hurt the front gearcase, but it could accelerate the wear of the the drive train components (such as the front prop shaft) because it does completely bind up the system and the bike
will be very difficult to steer. Because of the binding and additional steering effort, neither Hilliard nor Polaris will recommend doing this.

You can get the system out of the "wedging" condition without turning the power off to the AWD system, but it is very difficult and
not always repeatable. The only true, 100% way to release the clutch is to turn the power off and put the bike in reverse. This will release the pressure on the clutch and the springs inside the clutch will return
the rollers back to the neutral position.

To answer #3, there is no way to drive the front wheels at the same time as the rear wheels without the rear wheels slipping. The bike is geared to have a 20% speed difference from the back to the front.
This means that it takes the rear wheel to slip or spin 20% (1/5th of a rear tire revolution) before the front wheel to drive the system. This is necessary to give the bike a tight turning radius and to prevent the bike from automatically "wedging". If the front to rear ratio was 1:1, every time you turn the handle bars even slightly, the front wheels would act like they have a fully locked differential and it would take
you 30 feet to turn a 90 degree turn (like driving a new Kawasaki Prarie with the front gearcase locked). Becuase when you turn, all of the wheels on the bike are now moving at different speeds dictated by the ground speed, and the front clutch would not be able to overrun. With the 20% speed difference, the AWD can be on all the time and it will only be there when you need it. You won't get any of the side effects
of all the other systems that don't allow you to turn the 4wd on and off. Basically, having the front wheels driving the same speed as the rear wheels would be like driving a tank and would be hard on the arms
and not very fun.

I hope I have answered all of your questions and not confused you to much. Browse through the overrunning clutch section on the Hilliard web site (www.hilliardcorp.com) for more info on how overrunning clutches work if you have any more questions. Have a good day.

Thanks,
Matt Cowen
Engineering Product Manager
Drive Train Products
Hilliard Corporation

 

good reading

 

Bing, that first article there should be a sticky at the top of the forum. I think it would answer a lot of people's questions about polaris's awd system. It seems that a lot of people have no idea how it works, leading them to bad conclusions about their machine.

 

Interesting information. Thanks for posting it.

 

I have an 04 700efi when i first got it i noticed it sticking to and i figured out you have to treat it like a newer ford truck with the electric 4wd switch put it n nuetral turn it off and then back up a few feet which kinda pisses me off it wasnt what i was expecting

 

ive noticed that if i ride mine about 10 feet without any rear tire spin that mine seems to come out of AWD pretty well.

 

That's the point. If it's not going to be fully automatic then what's the use. If you have to stop and dink around to get it to kick out then it's worthless to me. It might as well have the standard front differential.

I've done an extensive search on a few forums and most of what I found was:
1. Change the hub fluid. (usually referring to the old style with fluid at each wheel)
2. Live with it.

You would think that since polaris has been using this system for quite a few years that the bugs would be worked out.