no, what im wondering is will the aaen secondary come with everything i need?, as if i didnt have a secondary clutch assembly in place on my quad, or will i have to reuse some of the components that i already have now(stock pulley w/ the hot seat clutch kit) does rick ritter sell these, i do not understand this, but trust rick to steer me in the right direction, if his shop sells them i would feel more comfortable giving him the money.....

james

 

alright im back, i took the clutch apart on the bench tonight and yeah if what yall are calling "buttons" are the plastic things set at 10-2-6 in the bottom there, yeah, lol id say that is what went wrong, considering there is nothing left but the 3 torxs screws....
where do i get these replacement buttons.... and how do i wind it back together... now on the helix the spring was set in the #2 position, as was the other end of the spring in the drum, but i have adjustment up or down the #1 or#3. what is the diff.
there is some small gouges on the helix, is that bad?

help please
james

 

You can get the buttons at any Polaris dealer for 3.50 a peice. Now the spring settings deal with the shifting. The stiffer you set the spring the longer it takes to upshift but then downshifts quickly. The weaker you set the spring the quicker it upshifts but the longer it downshifts. Thats why it is set on 2-2. It is the medium position. You dont want to set it too weak because it will have alot of belt slippage and you lose alot of power. If you race then you can lighten it up a little to help it upshift quicker. You dont need to worry about downshift very much in raceing. It might take 2 hands to wind the clutch if you have never done it before. Set your spring position, Then you want to wind the clutch clockwise 1\8 th of a turn and press the clutch together. Then put the snapring on. When you get the clutch back together put the belt on and take it for a spin. You will know if it is not right. Either the rpm's will be really high and you dont move much or rpm's will be low and it will bog and slowly build.

 

this may sound stupid, but so upshifting is acceleration(on throttle)backshift (off throttle)????so if i were to leave the helix on #2 and reduce the drum to #1 would that give me a better holeshot and quicker acceleration? do i lose top end ability? we race tight woods so the longest straight is generally from one tight corner to another (200-300 yds generally) its just constant "pin" -"off" ----"pin" "off" what is your opinion on the best setup?

 

bmp