I didn't read all the fourm but I am going on my old 94 trailbazer 250 2 stroke.
1. Mine always rattled and shook even new, sounded like the bottom end was going to fly apart at times.
2. It never idled down fast, was slower in hotter days, but took some time to idle down after a quick rev up.
3.After the rebuild I always mixed oil and gas from there on, I didn't trust the injector pump. Worked fine for yrs. but caused the lock up on mine. I didn't unhook it just burnt a little more oil and smoked more. Just don't get to much to foul the plug.
4. There was an oil pump priming proceedure, quick and easy to do.
5.You should have at least 100psi compression to run don't know the exact psi on that .(if its low like when I broke a ring it started and ran cold but when the engine got hot it died,and caused the idle problem to be wosre.
6. The carb is very easy to take apart and clean,I did it alot after it set during a spell to clean the gum out of it.Didn't rebuild used all the same gaskets just tore it down ,cleaned all the ports and tubes and jets & reassembled. Check the float and needle for dirt and be sure the float floats.
7. I have a Polaris manuel listed in ebay(hint)for all Polaris atvs from 1985-1995 and this is a great book for do it yourselfs.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
8. May want to invest in a belt made a big difference after I replaced the stock belt that had 5 yrs and many a mile on it. Also check the motor mounts Mine were old and broke.
9. Didn't know I could count this high.
10. LOL

 

I have to agree with everything Dontgetbehindme said. It takes more than you might think to let the engine settle back down to its normal idle. As far as the gas in the pipe issue, I would say you need to take apart your carb next. Carefully inspect the needle and seat. Also, make sure you write down what jets you have.

More than likely that grinding in the transmission is due to the RPM being too high when trying to shift, but if the clutches are out of alignment that can cause the same problem.

 

Just checked my manual, and actually the thermostat won't open until 260 degrees and the closes at 240. So I was trying to get the water to 260 degrees.

 

as far as the idling for that long and hi, it really shouldn't. as you mentioned you may have to adjust your cables. also wouldn't hurt to lube them on the inside, may be hanging up some. as for the fuel in pipe, your carb needs cleaned and probably new inlet needle and seat.
oh yeah, and up is reserve.

 

You can't get water to 260 degrees, [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]. Let me guess, your stove ran out of power somewhere around 212 degrees? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

If you want to try it again, you could add a bunch of salt to the water first, but I don't know if you want your thermostat in a saltwater bath.

 

You are right about the range top. Would not get near hot enuogh. I was just going by what the manual says.
I did what Aggiedaddy is probably going to do. I bought a new one. I tested mine to very it opened and closed with a heat gun, but not sure of the temp. Aggiedady, if you when puttin the thermostat back in, be careful not to over tighten. The threaded part breaks of easy.

 

I am just teasing you fishslab, I do apologize [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]. Pure water can not be heated past the boiling point on a conventional stove. To get it hotter you need to heat it another way (ie microwave- dangerous) or add something like salt to it.

Tyler

 

All right, everything has smoothed out (a lot less vibration) and it seems to be running good. I still have a loud exhaust leak that I am having trouble fixing. Today I put some caulk/putty-like stuff that is made for sealing exhaust leaks in pipe connections. I am assuming it has worked, because the stuff is a tan color and I can't see that there are any gaps/cracks in the joints or see any black exhaust marks coming out anywhere. I have come to the conclusion that the flange that bolts to the cylinder is where the leak is, so that means I've gotta take the pipe apart again. When I put the gasket on, the holes didn't line up exactly perfect. It wasn't off much, but the studs coming out of the cylinder were a little narrower than the gasket so i had to push it a little to get it on. The gasket is a Winderosa.
Has anyone heard of anything similar to this? Are there different size exhaust ports for factory 250 cylinders? Something else that I wonder about is if it is possible to tighten the nuts on the flange too much, and kind of cup it where it leaks on top and bottom.
Any thoughts?

 

yes down is reserve