SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
#1
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
I have a 2001 SP 400 and the left front wheel drags alittle. I changed the hub oil today and it still drags. What I mean by drag is it will pull to the left and if I am backing up the wheel will actually pull up the grass and I have to fight to keep the handle bars straight. I thought it was the break hanging up but I think it has to be the front hub. It happens when I switch out of AWD. If I stop and switch it out of AWD and then back up the wheel will be really tight. If I stop and switch it out of AWD and drive forward the wheel seems to break free and I don't have any problems. So I am open to some suggestions. Can I buy a new hub and put it on and how much work is that. I only have 536 miles on it and I have changed the hub a couple times in the past. Thanks for the help. BART
#2
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
the problem here i would say all of have had at least one time or another... if your hub oil is good, it sounds like your magnets are not disengaging your 4-wheel drive on that side. you can take it to your dealer and maybe they can see what is causing your to freeze up more than it should, but if it is on RARE occasion, i say to turn off the AWD, back up with and without reverse override and then go forward and it should break the magnets free. your choice, but one way is cheap and the other is probably expensive.
maybe some of the other guys have other options, but that is my solution- PB500
maybe some of the other guys have other options, but that is my solution- PB500
#3
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
Hi, i have a question about your 1" front wheel spacers, why do you use them? Did you make them? or can they be purchased.
I want to put chains on the front for winter, i ice fish with it. Stock , the chains would saw the strut off.
thanks for any help on that.
Deerkiller
I want to put chains on the front for winter, i ice fish with it. Stock , the chains would saw the strut off.
thanks for any help on that.
Deerkiller
#4
#5
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
I'm a designer in a machine shop, i intend to have them machined from 3/4" aluminum with the same bolt pattern as the hub.
From what i've used it for so far front chains arn't needed but sure would help on the ice or for plowing.
good luck and when i get them mounted i'll send some pictures.
From what i've used it for so far front chains arn't needed but sure would help on the ice or for plowing.
good luck and when i get them mounted i'll send some pictures.
#6
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
i ordered mine from the internet, i can't remember the site, but i think highlander has them.. i use them for the bigger tires and rims so they don't rub the tierods, they are a tremendous help. just do a search on here for wheel spacers and i am sure there are other people that have them as well.PB500
#7
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#8
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
Hey deerkiller I have a set of 1in wheel spacers I made you mite want to look at.If your good with a lathe they can be made in about a hour.You working where you do im sure you know all about a lathe.Comeing up with a piece of 1in thick aluminum is the hard part.I have some pics in my gallery.
#9
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
No I haven't had any luck yet. I really haven't touched it since the begining of the week when I changed the fluid. I imagine it is a big project to take the hub apart and change everything. I'm not sure how it even works, someone said the magnets were not releasing, I might have to change those. I'll keep everyone posted. BART
#10
SPAOTSMAN FRONT HUB
A shop manual will go a really really long way here.
If you don't have a shop manual -
STOP
Do not take it apart without the manual.
You will need a torque wrench - impossible to re-assemble without one.
The magnets do not release or get stuck. The magnet does not move.
The magnet causes friction that turns a plate which will cause a large hex nut to rotate
at a slower rpm then the wheel. When the hex nut moves it pushes 5 roller pins into place
where they enguage the inner circle of the hub - cuaseing it to "lock"
Torqueing the hub nut during re-assembly is critical
Aligning the magnets so they are at the proper gap is critical
Having the correct fluid and fluid amount is critical
The manual will point out several other concerns which can avoid VERY complicated mistakes in dissassembly of the hub - like not over extending the the CV joint - for example - which will require you to remove the boot, re-assemble and install new boot straps which you likely dont have in the garage.
If you don't have a shop manual -
STOP
Do not take it apart without the manual.
You will need a torque wrench - impossible to re-assemble without one.
The magnets do not release or get stuck. The magnet does not move.
The magnet causes friction that turns a plate which will cause a large hex nut to rotate
at a slower rpm then the wheel. When the hex nut moves it pushes 5 roller pins into place
where they enguage the inner circle of the hub - cuaseing it to "lock"
Torqueing the hub nut during re-assembly is critical
Aligning the magnets so they are at the proper gap is critical
Having the correct fluid and fluid amount is critical
The manual will point out several other concerns which can avoid VERY complicated mistakes in dissassembly of the hub - like not over extending the the CV joint - for example - which will require you to remove the boot, re-assemble and install new boot straps which you likely dont have in the garage.