Hoopie,

Polaris makes a special hub fluid for the demand hubs. There is a pipe plug with a magnetic tip screw in each hub. Take the proper sized allen wrench and remove the plugs. Rotate the front wheels to let the fluid drain out. If I'm removing the hubs I just remove the hub-caps and let it drain that way (much quicker). The pipe plugs will need to be removed when you re-fill the hubs after you've made repairs. When re-filling, you are only suppose to use enough hub fluid such that when the fill hole is rotated to the 3-4pm position, the fluid barely spills out. The bearings and clutch in the hubs are not packed with grease. Just wipe them off when you remove them and keep them clean. Some people use ATF in the hubs but since you don't use very much fluid in the hubs I'd recommend just buying the Polaris Demand Hub fluid.

By the way, if the pipe plugs do not break free easily, don't try to force the allen wrench to get them out cause their made of a soft metal and you'll only strip out the head of the plug.

I had a heck of a time removing the roll pins on my machine too. Once I got the right sized punch, it came right out.

Oh, and I purchased an ATV stand too. Got mine from Sam's Club. Well worth the money...

 

Finally something that sounds easy and i dont have to repack! Thats good because they looked like new anyways. I will get the polaris Hub fluid. Its only 8 bucks from the local dealer. The ATV stand is my new prize possesion. I want to work on the atvs just to use the stand! It is so much easier I just wish it had more ground clearance on the stand wheels.

 

Hoopie,
About the brakes... The caliper assembly is held onto the struts with two bolts. After you remove the bolts, the assembly should just slide off the disk rotor. You should tie some string around it and hang it from the chassis rather than let it hang by the brake line. There are a couple of pins that go through each end of the brake pads. I seem to remember that they just slide out and allow the pads to be removed for cleaning/replacement. You won't need to bleed the brakes unless you disconnect the brake lines. Just clean/reassemble the caliper assembly and slide it back over the disk rotor when putting it back together. Use blue loc-tite on the bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the strut. The manual will have the detailed instructions for your machine and the recommended torques.

 

Getting it off was pretty easy. It was getting it back on. I wanted to loosely reassemble everything why i waited for the parts to come in (I order the shafts today) so i didnt loose anything or forget how I got it off while waiting. I found out that you use a c clamp to open up the brake pads to put them back on. Any suggestions for new brake pads?

 

You can get the Polaris OEM pads for $40 or go to Magic Racing on Van Dyke and 23 mile and get the EBC severe duty sintered for around $26.

I would not recommend the Tusk or cheaper brand pads.

Jim

 

Hey Hoopie, I just want to say that I think youre doing a hell of a job for a first time wrencher. Keep up the good work and keep askin questions if youre unsure of anything, Im sure we have any answer your lookin for.

 

Just think maybe one of these days I will be an asset to the forum and not a burden with all of this experiance I am getting! LOL! Hopefully I am not the only one learning from this. Thanks again. I will be going to Magic Racing to get the EBC pads.

 

Hoopie,
Unless the pads are extremely worn, why replace them? After you clean them up with brake cleaner, check the thickness of the remaining pads. If they are within specs (which should be specified in the manual) just put them back in clean. On mine, I took a flat file and gently removed the surface glaze before replacing them. (I also took an orbital hand sander and some very fine emery cloth and lightly went over the rotors as well)

 

I agree, somebody buy this man a beer!!!!!

 

I figured on the brakes if its already apart what the heck? I dont know if there completely worn or not but there the orginal pads so how long could they last? I figured better safe than sorry. How do you know if the ball joints are ok? knowing my luck i would get the shafts fixed and the ball joints would break.