Oil Changing
#1
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was changing the oil on my 04 sp 500 for the first time. I was wondering if it is important to clean the filter on the hose on the backside of the oil tank. Also if it is how exactly do you do the oil priming. Also does anyone know exactly where the other plug is in order to drain that extra cup of oil. This is my first atv and i'm not to good mechanically so any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ty
Thanks
Ty
#2
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did the first change on my 04.5 500ho recently don't bother to remove the filter in the tank it's a pain (i had to machine a socket for to get it out) mine was clean. Also the extra cup of oil another wast of time and it makes a mess as for priming never did figure that out so i just replaced the filter and put the new oil to the correct level and ran it been ok woud recomend the polaris oil change kit from the dealer comes with every thing you need
#4
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I changed the oil on my 400 before I traded it in. That screen a really tough to get to and since she only had 20 hours, I skipped it. As far as priming, I don't think you have to unless you pull the tube and clean the screen. It keeps oil in the pick-up tube.
To be safe, I did the priming procedure and didn't hear the "rush of air". That tells me there was oil already in there.
Good luck!
To be safe, I did the priming procedure and didn't hear the "rush of air". That tells me there was oil already in there.
Good luck!
#5
#6
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Trying to properly maintain my 2004.5 500 HO on it's first oil change, I followed the manual and removed the screen, extra drain plug, etc. Didn't need any special tools, just patience. My screen was also clean as a whistle and I don't plan to clean it again for a few years (at least). A mechanic at my local dealer said they hardly ever clean this screen (in other words, they NEVER do), but he said doing so on the first oil change is a good "piece of mind" check in case any metal shavings happen to get flushed through a new engine.
As for the second drain plug, I ALWAYS drain this hole on every oil change. Yes it's kind of hard to get to, but not really that bad and it gets easier ever time I do it. The more dirty oil you get out the better, although you never get it all of course. My main complaint is the poor engineering and design for this plug! It sure makes a damn mess! There is no easy way to avoid oil from pouring all over the bottom skid plate and traveling down the frame bottom. Sometimes you wonder if the guys that design such crap have ever picked-up a wrench...I doubt it.
Anyway, just my thoughts...
RC
As for the second drain plug, I ALWAYS drain this hole on every oil change. Yes it's kind of hard to get to, but not really that bad and it gets easier ever time I do it. The more dirty oil you get out the better, although you never get it all of course. My main complaint is the poor engineering and design for this plug! It sure makes a damn mess! There is no easy way to avoid oil from pouring all over the bottom skid plate and traveling down the frame bottom. Sometimes you wonder if the guys that design such crap have ever picked-up a wrench...I doubt it.
Anyway, just my thoughts...
RC
#7
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Ty
I would probably check the screen for the first time then leave it alone. I do fairly high milege and have never had anything in the screen. I change the oil every 50 hours and use caltex synthetic oil and a baldwin b1402 filter. To save pulling the plug out on the engine on the right side to drain the remaining oil(near the brake peddle), I drain the oil in the tank then run the bike at idle for a few seconds, the oil will then be pumped into the tank. Saves a lot of mucking around. Haven't had any pump priming problems yet. I can here everyone saying this will cause engine damage but I don't think running an engine for a few seconds at idle that is already warm and coated in oil will cause any damage. My 2004.5 400 sportsman has done 550 hours now no problems at all, except the cv boots and the crushed spark plug leed. I did change the oil 3 times in the first 100 hours though. That is the most important time, while it is bedding in. The caltex oil is still clean after the 50 hours which is usually every 40 days. Make sure you do the oil filter up tightly they sometimes will come loose if you don't. The Baldwin b1402 is also a larger filter than the standard one which should help in filtering. Here in Australia I can purchase one for $8 where a original one is close to $40, what a rip off, genuine parts. I am thinking of trading the bike in soon, but am unsure, is there a new model out now a 2005 I here? I am a little worried about the belt drive going like it did in the old 335, may be best to get another one before the warrenty runs out.
I would probably check the screen for the first time then leave it alone. I do fairly high milege and have never had anything in the screen. I change the oil every 50 hours and use caltex synthetic oil and a baldwin b1402 filter. To save pulling the plug out on the engine on the right side to drain the remaining oil(near the brake peddle), I drain the oil in the tank then run the bike at idle for a few seconds, the oil will then be pumped into the tank. Saves a lot of mucking around. Haven't had any pump priming problems yet. I can here everyone saying this will cause engine damage but I don't think running an engine for a few seconds at idle that is already warm and coated in oil will cause any damage. My 2004.5 400 sportsman has done 550 hours now no problems at all, except the cv boots and the crushed spark plug leed. I did change the oil 3 times in the first 100 hours though. That is the most important time, while it is bedding in. The caltex oil is still clean after the 50 hours which is usually every 40 days. Make sure you do the oil filter up tightly they sometimes will come loose if you don't. The Baldwin b1402 is also a larger filter than the standard one which should help in filtering. Here in Australia I can purchase one for $8 where a original one is close to $40, what a rip off, genuine parts. I am thinking of trading the bike in soon, but am unsure, is there a new model out now a 2005 I here? I am a little worried about the belt drive going like it did in the old 335, may be best to get another one before the warrenty runs out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)