Finally got the time to install the rcr stage one kit on my wifes 05 Trailblazer LE. I have never worked on atv's before but am aircraft mechanic by trade so I gave it a shot. Not very hard at all. I started out by putting a coat of 1200 degree ceramic header coating on the pipe, I picked it up at autozone and will see how well it holds up. So now I have an orange pipe. Looks pretty sweet. Ok now for the down and dirty. I took off all the plastic. Probly get away with just the rear fenders, but I decided to take em all off. Off comes the old pipe, easy. Install the flange that comes with the kit and start to work the pipe. It takes a bit of wiggling to get it on just right. the springs are not that tough. I used a pair of pliers and a small crowbar. The instructions do not explain how to secure the pipe in much detail so I just worked different angels on springs and the mount braket till I found a position I liked. Now for the clutch. Just 8 bolts or so that hold the cover on, then 6 bolts outer bolts one center holding the outer part of the clutch. Remove one each blue spring insert one each black spring(came with RCR kit, so not sure the brand or tension). New spring is a significantly stiffer than the stock. Reinstall outer clutch cover, Did not have torque wrench so, I put German Torque on them. Reinstall cover. Moving on to the jetting. This is a long story. I had zero understanding of how carbs work. Air and gas go in mixed with some PFM and thats that. I spent the better part of a day reading and learning the theory and components of carbs. So here we go. Turned the gas off and removed the airbox and loosedn the clamp that holds the carb to the engine. Flipped it over and removed 4 screws from the bottom. I think there may be an easier way to access the jet, but I went strait for the obvious, and I wanted to see what was inside anyway. Remove old stock 130mm and insert a 150mm. I went with the 150 because it is averageing mid 90's(Tennessee) and the humididy sucks. Reinstall bowl and flip back over. You have enough room to flip it without removing any lines too. Next unscrew the top where the throttle cable goes in. Remove the slide and compress the spring to remove the needle. Moved clip from the 3 to the 4 position. reinstall slide and screw the top on. Reinstall the carb and airbox. Set air screw to 1.5 turns. Reinstall all plastic. Haha the moment of truth. Turn key, no start. Hmm. Pull choke turn key nope. Damn, Just a bit worried. Then I remember to turn the fuel main back on. Haha, I am glad I caught it before I started taking anything apart again. Fire it up. Immidiatley I am pleased with the sound. I used to own a yamaha tri-z three wheeler and got used the cackle of a 2 stroke. I go out and test it. U have to use the reverse overide all the time to go in reverse, due to the engagement rpm increase. If anyone has a fix to hard wire it on I would like to hear about it. Low end improved. No more doggy take off, it popps now. Tested high end. Did not get Gps out, but it feels a bit faster. Killed it to read the plug and noticed it was a bit on the black side and I had noticed a stutter at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. So I screwed the air screw in 1/4 turn to make it 1 1/4 turn out and put the needle back to clip position 3. Wow that fixed it right up. no hesitation and if you lean back and give it a little tug right when you nail the powerband the front will come up with a quickness. My wife says it is too strong for her now and does not like it. Oh well, she will get used to it I guess. I am considering putting the stock spring back in or buying a medium range spring. I kick myself for not taking pics of the build up. I have a few but not like I had intended to get. Hope this helps someone out. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]