As of now Im running a basic race mod setup. See signature. But I want to go faster, and I know it can. The reason for this post is: what is up with this HPD powermax? Why wont they sell this cylinder by its self? Do you mean to tell me that this cylinder wont work with a RCR or a CPI out of frame drag pipe? I mean, you can buy a 300+cc cylinder from ESR for the 250r without buying a "kit" Whats the diff between the new racemod pipe, and the MAX pipe? How come we never hear of these 400 engines on a little NO2? And while Im on a roll here, whats the deal with the stroker these days? Where is dennis? I havent seen a post from him is months. Even on his own website. If this engine is so hot why isnt he, or someone, on here sellin it? Rite now I have been 4.92 in 300 ft. And with some more clutch and carb tuning I hope to get a 4.89 out of it. (HOPE) But I cant help but think, that it would go faster with some of the above mentioned engine mods.
Ok... Im done now. Sorry if I came off a little abrupt but, this has been on my mind for a while now, and I wanted to get it out.

Thanks for hearing me, and for any replies.
Brent [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

 

on the power max you have to buy the head two! its different, the pipe, I think yours will still work fine but not 100%

 

The powermaxx setup is totally different, the cylinder has a monster reed cage, the cylinder actually has the grooves cut for the orings instead of the head, that's why the stock cylinder head won't work. There's a lot more that goes into pipes and getting the right so the power is everywhere, if you put the regular race mod pipe on the powermaxx, it loses power big time. Also it takes a little bit different angle out of the head so the stock cylinder race pipe won't work. There is no comparision in power between the two, the powermaxx has a whole lot more top end and torque than the stock cylinder, I've had both the stock cylinder on alky and the powermaxx on gas. I'd take the powermaxx on gas any day. Now the powermaxx on alky would be nasty. As for the stroker the only decent running one I have heard of is Kathy's and when I asked her about it, she said don't waste your time just put your quad on nos. I know podrag's stock cylinder race mod with drag pipe went 4.5's with the new owner. Setup has a lot to do with it. WHat kind of 60ft times are you turning and what kind of surface are you running on. There are lots of people that say they have gotten a polaris into the 4's, it's not that easy. I only know of a handful most won't show timeslips and I've outrun a lot of super fast polaris's with my 5.5 polaris most are just fast on the computer and not in person![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] You've got a respectable time!

 

Hey saw your post and thought I would comment. The racemods are plenty for drag racing if you like to bracket race as well. I went a 4.90 on the first day out on my bike. Never could get the carb set right in one days racing...along with the clutching and so on. Well after a while of the bike sitting(hmmh..new baby)...I decided to sell it. I re-honed the cylinder(still at .040) and put new gaskets/rings. Zipped it up and tweaked on the carb. Ran the bike for break in and it felt faster. With no time to race I shipped the bike to a guy in va. He replaced the fuel pumped with another, put the hpd ignition on and took it straight to the track. Ran a best of 4.59 on dirt 300' and ran 4 or so 4.6's to back it. Now I havent seen timeslips, but up until this point I have had great dealings with the new owner and we have been straight up with each other. He sold his 2 quadzillas to concentrate only on the polaris. The engine was done by Rick Ritter and it had the stock head, v force reeds, wiseco, RCR drag pipe, clutch mods and so on. I personally went a best of 4.83 so maybe the igntion did help out that much. I do have timeslips for my times to prove it and I am sure there are others that can vouch for it. I can fill you in on a secret there are other springs available to help tune the clutches other than those offered by hpd and others. I think on a drag frame this bike would easily do some upper 4.4s. I wouldnt be scared to put a little shot on the bike, but I just like racing and not tuning so much. I am hoping to have a new one built next year on a drag frame, but we will have to see how things go. Hope this helps.

 

I stock the Hpd Ignitions and they are especially effective in high compression engines . There are also a bunch of different springs out there . The springs that are the fastest in 100 yards though are really kind of useless for much else . Is the spring he is having so much luck with that almond / blue one ?

Rick Ritter

 

I am running the hpd ignition, with the almond spring with tucked under s58 weights. I an thinking about going back on race gas and squirting a 15hp shot of no2. Do you know what daryll is running with his powermax on nitrous, Rick?
I am going back to the track this weekend (4.5 hr drive) Ill post the results. The last time I went down it was like 95 degrees and 80% humidity. Maybe the cool air will hwlp out a little too.

 

What kind of stall do you have on the bike?...did you not have any luck with the lavender spring with 10-56g weights? The cool air should help out a good bit. I think you may be able to squeeze a .10 or so out of it with nice weather. Let me know how it runs.

 

You could always try Ricks drag pipe if he can build you one....works great.

 

I must comment on a few things here. Whitedog, your bike turns very well timeslips. Sounds like your track is like ours. Dana's 350R manually shifting has only run into the 4.8's. My bike has run into the 4.4's and very consistent 4.5's. Unless everyone got together and met at the same track then you will never have a full 100% comparison between bikes. My banshee did 83hp at the rear wheels on the dyno and it is lighter than probably most Polaris's, as I have lightened it too.

Podrag said his best was only a 4.83, so that is believable. 4.5's is really getting out of reach I would think. You can setup a bike very well, but still consider a race mod to put out 75hp and then drop going through the clutching to the rear wheels. I'm not bashing a thing or especially Rick's motor abilities (you know that Rick [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]), it's just that to me you seem to be on track for what your working with right now. Dropping below 5.00 seems to be tough, but when you start going below 4.7-4.8 range it really starts taking some power or major weight loss to get the timeslips dropped. I have worked on inching the times down on bikes and it takes a lot of patience and testing.

What Rick said was absolutely correct. Automatics dont generate wheel speed. You need a huge amount of stall to snap the tires and get it moving. To clutch one for racing means it wont be good for much else. You need the stall to be at least 5000, more if you can get it. Racing sleds can engage at 6K or more. Everything has to be geared for 300 feet racing. Let the bike leave hard, then have the clutch shifting all the way through to about 280-290 feet. Too much gear and it will lack on the bottom end. Too little gear and the clutch shifts out and quits pulling down track. The one thing I can tell you is keep trying!!!!!! You might end up with a couple of springs and weight sets, but you have to know what will work for you and your track. Bubba