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Winch contactor

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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 01:03 PM
  #11  
GeorgiaBII's Avatar
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Default Winch contactor

Did a search on the relay and can't find the specs on it.

Do you know the amperage rating on these?

Most headlight relays that I know of are only in the 30amp range and thats not nearly the rating on our batteries.

Also did you add any circuit protection to this scheme?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 01:17 PM
  #12  
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30 goes to winch
87a goes to ground with same wire as winch
87 goes to battery with same cable as winch
86 goes to ignition power
85 goes to one side of switch (3 terminal switch with center being common in switched position)
center of switch goes to ground

30 and 87a are connected when the relay is at rest providing our grounds



so what happens is both winch terminals are always grounded until one relay is energised by the switch which connects one side of the winch to power while leaving the other side (relay) grounded

move switch the other way and the other relay switches to power while the first one switches back to ground as the relay de energises and winch turns the other way

this is how most vehicles operate the power window or power lock circuits

 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 01:24 PM
  #13  
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Default Winch contactor

yeah the operations of that setup are almost idiot proof but what concerns me is the amperage rating. Any ideas on that?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #14  
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don't really know how much a winch draws but I'm sure the relays are rated at a higher capacity than those little batteries can supply

I have havd them on my 2000 lbs winch for years without a burnt out relay
 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 02:16 PM
  #15  
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Well most of the 2.5 winch's have a .9hp motor on them. at 12vdc that is theoretically 57amps. BUT you have to factor in some inefficency so lets call it 60 amps.

If I had to hazard a guess I'd say your running 2 standard 5 pin automotive relays and they are usually rated at 30-40 amps. SO that being said you probably have had no problems to date for a couple of reasons. 1 that you haven't maxed out the winch and 2 that there is usually some fluff built into specs to cover the manufactures ***. That said it's pretty likely that your running with relays that are only rated for half the load limit. Not the greatest way to be but it sounds like it's working.

To be safe I'd really suggest adding a circuit breaker to your circuit to protect you. An overloaded relay can "weld" itself and your winch could run away on you. It'd be simple to add a 30amp breaker to the + supply cable and protect yourself.


Nice setup and pretty simple there man thanks for sharing. I think I'll use it myself but with circuit protection and some upgraded relays.

 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #16  
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I have no idea what you mean about 60 amps. I got this off a Warn page....


Line Pull Lbs.(Kgs.)----Amps


0-------------------------18 amps
500(227)---------------51 amps
1000(455)-------------88 amps
1500(680)-------------125 amps
2000(907)-------------165 amps
2500(1134)------------204 amps


http://www.warn.com/atv/winches/25ci.shtml
 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 11:37 PM
  #17  
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Instigator is right. I don't remember the exact numbers, but the last time I looked at the Warn 2.5 current draw, I seem to remember ~25A with absolutely no load on the winch motor. Using the winch to pull a Sportsman across smooth pavement with the brake set was ~70A. When I stalled the winch motor, I got currents above 200A.

I am not familiar with the headlight relays you guys are referring to, but I doubt they're rated to 200A. I'm not saying the relays won't work, but I bet the manufacturer does not endorse them being used in this application. Use at your own risk.....
 
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 01:17 PM
  #18  
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Speaking of relays and contactors, does anyone know for sure if the 2000 and the 2500 (just the winch) is the same? I see an upgrade kit,... http://www.warn.com/atv/accessories/...gradeKit.shtml This says that this kit will turn a 2000 lb winch into a 2500. Apperantly the only thing holding back a 2000 lb winch is the hand operated switch. I put a question into Warn tech support. I will share info if anyone is interested. Only reason I am asking is because I am working on a rear winch and have no problem getting the CHEAPER winch and using my $24 4-relay method and making it a 2500 lb. I was wondering how guys are using dual winches. Do they have two rockers? Does anyone know how the MV7 is setup? I am trying to come up with a way to use my existing mini rocker and a toggle to select which winch it will operate. Thanks for any info!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2005 | 01:39 AM
  #19  
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Originally posted by: Instigater
Speaking of relays and contactors, does anyone know for sure if the 2000 and the 2500 (just the winch) is the same? I see an upgrade kit,... http://www.warn.com/atv/accessories/...gradeKit.shtml This says that this kit will turn a 2000 lb winch into a 2500. Apperantly the only thing holding back a 2000 lb winch is the hand operated switch. I put a question into Warn tech support. I will share info if anyone is interested. Only reason I am asking is because I am working on a rear winch and have no problem getting the CHEAPER winch and using my $24 4-relay method and making it a 2500 lb. I was wondering how guys are using dual winches. Do they have two rockers? Does anyone know how the MV7 is setup? I am trying to come up with a way to use my existing mini rocker and a toggle to select which winch it will operate. Thanks for any info!
The only part of that I can answer is the MV setup - it has a toggle switch on the pod, one side makes the handlebar switch run the front winch, the other pole makes it run the rear. No special wiring there, just a switch connecting 2 winches to one standard controller.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2005 | 08:02 PM
  #20  
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Thanks, I am going to look into this a little more. I now need to find out how the correct contactor works. I need to find out if it has 12 volts to it with the key on. If it does, than that is an easy setup. I will interupt the two 12 volt wires with the toggle. I will probably just get the correct contactor for the rear also. It would be easier. I just hate spending the dough, when I know a cheaper way. Plus, if the part goes bad, it is another $85. My other setup would only be a $6 repair, once you find out which one is bad. I have a 2500 on the front, so I can test this out. I just don't want to go out to the garage NOW. LOL!!!!!!!
 
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