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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 11:15 AM
  #11  
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Castrol Syntec 5w50 eh?

I live in AZ and the coldest it ever gets around here is low 30's while it can get up to 115. Would I still want to use a 5w50 or go with the 0w40 I keep hearing about?

I saw some Mobile Oil 0w40 at Autozone for $4.50 which is better then the $8 for PS-4. How much does the Castrol normally run?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 02:42 PM
  #12  
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The Castrol Syntec is from about $4 to $5 depending on where you get it.

Walmart used to sell it in 6 packs for $20. If I really had reason to believe the $8 Polaris oil was better in any way I would buy it.

The 5w50 is perfect for the temp range in AZ.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 07:44 PM
  #13  
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Hudson4269,

I live in Phoenix also and I run Mobile1 15-50 year round. I buy the 5 quart jug at walmart for 20.00.
$4.00 a quart for excellent oil is hard to top.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #14  
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PS-4 is for wet clutches, i don't know if you can use that in a automatic.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 10:07 PM
  #15  
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is it important to change the break-in oil? Because i have 900 miles on my 05 sp 500 and its got the same oil from the factory because i havent had enough money to buy a kit and change it

bob
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 03:20 AM
  #16  
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Originally posted by: polarisbob
is it important to change the break-in oil? Because i have 900 miles on my 05 sp 500 and its got the same oil from the factory because i havent had enough money to buy a kit and change it

bob
You could have metal fragments flooting around in the oil.

I use Mobil One 0w40 in my sp700 all year around.

Jim
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 03:23 AM
  #17  
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Cornbread,

I know you are not big on the polaris oils fan but what are the diff oils you have used with success in the trans. ?
I was thinking of using the Mobil1 75w90 full syn gearcase lube but in my opinion its too much thicker than the AGL Pol fluid for use in the winter here in MI.

BTW I just paid $14 for a qt of the AGL at my dealer!!!! Doh!

Jim
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 06:38 AM
  #18  
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hpd recomends amsoil 75w-90 full synthetic for gearcases.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 10:23 AM
  #19  
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Like many other Polaris owners I use Mobil1 0-40 in our machines all year round. We’ve had no engine related problems and I’m not an oil expert so I won’t pretend to be one.

On the subject of oil changes though, here’s a little tip for you dry sump engine owners (400s and 500s). As you may or may not be aware, a cup or so of oil remains in the bottom of the engine after draining your oil reservoir. There’s a drain plug in the bottom of the crankcase to drain that bit of oil out but it’s a real pain to get at and even harder to reinstall. Here’s an easier method to accomplish the same result.

During an oil change, with your oil filter off and your oil reservoir drain plug removed, after your oil stops draining pull on the recoil start rope about six times with the IGNITION OFF. This will circulate that oil in the case and it will drain from the openings on your machine. Wait a few minutes then repeat. Do this four or five times and you’ll have saved yourself the frustration of messing with that crankcase drain and have done a “complete” oil change.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:48 PM
  #20  
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If you have a Polaris such as a 500 Magnum that has a seperate rear diff. use any good quality 80-90 gear oil.

Use the same in any front diff. that has the locking hubs on the wheels.

Never use the 90 weight on the newer front ends that have the front wheel drive unit built in the front diff.

On your gearbox use a good quality synthetic motor oil. All newer Polaris gearboxes have a chain inside. 90 weight will not lube the chain properly.

On older Polaris gearboxes such as something made in 92 or older it would be fine to use 90 weight in the gearbox.
 
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