Turned my 325 Magnum into a submarine...help!!
#1
I hope you guys can help. My 325 Magnum spent about 30 minutes in the pond last night while I was taking off wet clothes, and devising a way to get it out. Any suggestions as to what I need to do to get her running again? Figured I'd drain the oil, gas, try to start with the plug out to clear the head.....anything else I should do? Also....any suggestions on where i can download the 2001 Polaris 325 4x4 Magnum service manuel??
Thanks for your help, and thank God the rear wheels float, or I'd be a dead SOB this morning......Live and learn!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
Thanks for your help, and thank God the rear wheels float, or I'd be a dead SOB this morning......Live and learn!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
#2
Ouch! That’s a tough break. I’ve always said ATVs will float if you get ‘em into deep enough water, unfortunately they float upside down.
If you got water in everything you need to drain, flush and refill everything, usually more than once to get all the water out. You’re on the right track by pulling the plug first. I’d drain the engine oil / water and replace it with the cheapest automotive oil you can buy. Pour a little into the cylinder via the spark plug hole if it will take it. Use your recoil starter to turn the motor over a whole bunch of times. Drain the oil and do it again using the cheap oil. This time try cranking it over with the electric starter. Get that oil circulating through the engine good. Drain it again. After the third crank & drain put good oil in it, drain the float bowl on the carb, add fresh fuel a fresh plug and try starting it. Let it idle up to operating temp and drain again. This time put the recommended oil in it. You ought to be good to go but you may want to consider changing the oil and filter again after a ride or two. Keep an eye on the dipstick, you should be able to see if there’s still water in there by the color of the oil, it will look milky if there is.
Your tranny, transfer cases and hubs should be drained, refilled and drained and refilled again after a ride or two. You should unscrew a few of the lower bolts on your clutch cover to get the water out of it and drain the recoil starter housing (there’s a plug on the bottom). Dry out your pull-start rope. Good Luck!
If you got water in everything you need to drain, flush and refill everything, usually more than once to get all the water out. You’re on the right track by pulling the plug first. I’d drain the engine oil / water and replace it with the cheapest automotive oil you can buy. Pour a little into the cylinder via the spark plug hole if it will take it. Use your recoil starter to turn the motor over a whole bunch of times. Drain the oil and do it again using the cheap oil. This time try cranking it over with the electric starter. Get that oil circulating through the engine good. Drain it again. After the third crank & drain put good oil in it, drain the float bowl on the carb, add fresh fuel a fresh plug and try starting it. Let it idle up to operating temp and drain again. This time put the recommended oil in it. You ought to be good to go but you may want to consider changing the oil and filter again after a ride or two. Keep an eye on the dipstick, you should be able to see if there’s still water in there by the color of the oil, it will look milky if there is.
Your tranny, transfer cases and hubs should be drained, refilled and drained and refilled again after a ride or two. You should unscrew a few of the lower bolts on your clutch cover to get the water out of it and drain the recoil starter housing (there’s a plug on the bottom). Dry out your pull-start rope. Good Luck!
#3
FloodRunner has got you on the right track. Need to do it all and the air cleaner box too. Let us know how you came out.
Originally posted by: floodrunner
Ouch! That’s a tough break. I’ve always said ATVs will float if you get ‘em into deep enough water, unfortunately they float upside down.
If you got water in everything you need to drain, flush and refill everything, usually more than once to get all the water out. You’re on the right track by pulling the plug first. I’d drain the engine oil / water and replace it with the cheapest automotive oil you can buy. Pour a little into the cylinder via the spark plug hole if it will take it. Use your recoil starter to turn the motor over a whole bunch of times. Drain the oil and do it again using the cheap oil. This time try cranking it over with the electric starter. Get that oil circulating through the engine good. Drain it again. After the third crank & drain put good oil in it, drain the float bowl on the carb, add fresh fuel a fresh plug and try starting it. Let it idle up to operating temp and drain again. This time put the recommended oil in it. You ought to be good to go but you may want to consider changing the oil and filter again after a ride or two. Keep an eye on the dipstick, you should be able to see if there’s still water in there by the color of the oil, it will look milky if there is.
Your tranny, transfer cases and hubs should be drained, refilled and drained and refilled again after a ride or two. You should unscrew a few of the lower bolts on your clutch cover to get the water out of it and drain the recoil starter housing (there’s a plug on the bottom). Dry out your pull-start rope. Good Luck!
Ouch! That’s a tough break. I’ve always said ATVs will float if you get ‘em into deep enough water, unfortunately they float upside down.
If you got water in everything you need to drain, flush and refill everything, usually more than once to get all the water out. You’re on the right track by pulling the plug first. I’d drain the engine oil / water and replace it with the cheapest automotive oil you can buy. Pour a little into the cylinder via the spark plug hole if it will take it. Use your recoil starter to turn the motor over a whole bunch of times. Drain the oil and do it again using the cheap oil. This time try cranking it over with the electric starter. Get that oil circulating through the engine good. Drain it again. After the third crank & drain put good oil in it, drain the float bowl on the carb, add fresh fuel a fresh plug and try starting it. Let it idle up to operating temp and drain again. This time put the recommended oil in it. You ought to be good to go but you may want to consider changing the oil and filter again after a ride or two. Keep an eye on the dipstick, you should be able to see if there’s still water in there by the color of the oil, it will look milky if there is.
Your tranny, transfer cases and hubs should be drained, refilled and drained and refilled again after a ride or two. You should unscrew a few of the lower bolts on your clutch cover to get the water out of it and drain the recoil starter housing (there’s a plug on the bottom). Dry out your pull-start rope. Good Luck!
#4
Thanks guys....I appreciate it.
Was up till 1am this morning doing most all the things you mentioned. Have cycled several quarts of oil through, but haven't done anything with the hubs, as I don't know how to drain.....Don't know how to drain carb bowl either, but disconnected all lines to fuel pump and drained that way.....also will put in de icer / water eliminator. Drained front and rear gear housings....How much fluid do I put back in there?....Can't seem to find service manuel. What would you guys flush the gear housings with? Hate to do it with the Polaris fluid, as I would have to mortgage my house. Think regular trans fluid would be ok?
Went to the Polaris store to get my parts and saw the new $10,000.00 4 wheeler they are making! What a tank!!! That thing looks indestructible. Don't know that it would have done any better when I rolled into the pond.....matter of fact it would have probably crushed me as opposed to just giving me a few bumps and bruises.
Thanks again, and I am going to try and post a pic of my submarine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g/Dsc00164.jpg
Was up till 1am this morning doing most all the things you mentioned. Have cycled several quarts of oil through, but haven't done anything with the hubs, as I don't know how to drain.....Don't know how to drain carb bowl either, but disconnected all lines to fuel pump and drained that way.....also will put in de icer / water eliminator. Drained front and rear gear housings....How much fluid do I put back in there?....Can't seem to find service manuel. What would you guys flush the gear housings with? Hate to do it with the Polaris fluid, as I would have to mortgage my house. Think regular trans fluid would be ok?
Went to the Polaris store to get my parts and saw the new $10,000.00 4 wheeler they are making! What a tank!!! That thing looks indestructible. Don't know that it would have done any better when I rolled into the pond.....matter of fact it would have probably crushed me as opposed to just giving me a few bumps and bruises.
Thanks again, and I am going to try and post a pic of my submarine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g/Dsc00164.jpg
#5
Link on e-bay just ordered on of these from this seller $13.00 shipping included. Polaris service manual on CD Rom. If you can not find this link just search on e-bay for your Magnum. Good Luck let us know when you GIT ER DONE (:>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
#7
Originally posted by: kj330
To get your manual go to polarisindustries.com IT WILL TAKE ABOUT 100 PAGES IN YOUR PRINTER BUT IT IS ALL THERE.
To get your manual go to polarisindustries.com IT WILL TAKE ABOUT 100 PAGES IN YOUR PRINTER BUT IT IS ALL THERE.
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#8
I was able to print out a 2 page supplement, but that was all that was available. I need the original manuel, as I want to make sure I have found all the grease fittings....Thanks for everyones help.
#9
I never could find the 2001 325 4x4 service manual online for download. I ended up buying one (damn glad I did, too. It's quite handy!). It's a good size book. What exactly are you looking for and I might can scan those pages for you... Also, check out Polaris Tech Sheets
Good luck!
Good luck!
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