I have a '97 Scrambler with a few mod's on it and am having trouble with the front hubs engaging even with the 4wheel drive button disengaged. I have disconnected the wires powering the hubs at the panel and it still does it. It doesn't happen all the time. Only when I REALLY get on it. I first noticed it last winter in the snow and ice. Now that my tires are getting kind of bald it seems to happen every time I take off real fast. I can still kick the rear end out in turns and do donuts alright without it happening. It's like it's fine for about 10' and then WHAM the front wheels kick in.

What's up? Do I need to adjust something inside the hubs? Is the armature in the hubs sticking? How do I fix it without paying someone $50 an hour? I have the shop manual for it but the trouble shooting section doesn't help me regarding this problem. HELP!!

Dane Sharpe
'97 Scrambler 400 w/ RCR mods and split brakes

 

I'd start by checking/changing the front hub fluid. If you've already done that, I guess you'll have to either pay somebody, or learn to do it yourself.

Dave

 

My neighbors was doing the same thing. I drained the hubs, and put the Mobil 1 synthetic in them, and his problem stopped.

 

I would drain the fluid and take the whole assembly apart. Clean the bearings and roll cage with brake cleaner, let everything dry and then put it back together. Fill it with new fluid, but make sure you don't overfill it.

 

Change the hub fluid. If that doesn't work, change it again. This will help flush out any remaining gunk. If it still kicks in, try Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in it. If it STILL grabs when you don't want it to, you will most likely have to replace the 'spring' that goes around the rollers in the hub mechinism. Some have tried switching to the Mobil oil right away & cured the problem. I think is is a little more 'slippery' than the Polaris stuff, so it is less likely to drag.

 

Thanx for the tips folks. It just so happens that I run Mobile 1 synthetic in my vehicles at home so I won't even have to make a special trip to Wally world for this one . I'll clean everything up on the inside of the hubs too, it's been awhile since I've changed the fluid - a year or so I think.

 

Make sure the bearings are adjusted right. You have a set of four taper bearings that need 100 to 110 in lbs. preload to work right. Then there is a measurement on the magnetic coil that is around 0 to .003 for that to work right. A tech manuel will tell you how to do these things better than can be explained here. Its fairly simple to do if you have some good mechanical skills.

 

I had the 'plates' changed in one of my hubs that was intermittently engaging, when I didn't want it on. Cleaning out the hub and fresh fluid usually does the job, just another small small glitch that is easily repaired.

 

Does anyone think it would hurt to use a parts cleaning solvent to fill the hub with and turn it for a little while by hand to clean the gunk out? Then fill and drain it several times with fresh fluid to make sure all the solvent is rinses out with fluid.

I'm trying to find an easy way to clean it up without pulling it apart.

 

I would use diesel fuel.