*Front Hub "Demand Drive" Help Needed*
#1
It all started out buying my '01 Xplorer 250 4x4. Later, the boots ripped and needed replacing. Got new boots,
took the hub apart, replaced the boots. All Good? No way nothing comes good out of taking the hub apart I learned.
At First, both wheels locked in, giving me the four wheel drive. Then, one side stopped working. Then the other side gave out. We have tooken it apart many, many times to try different things that would be wrong with it. This hub is a modern version, so the people with a 05 06 its probably the same I would imagine. We put pure polaris demand drive oil into both hubs, filling it to 3 o'clock. The nut (soon as you take off the demand drive hub cap) I torqued down as tight as possible, then let off, so we could turn the wheel. Also I heard of a "sleeve" inside that needs to be within a thousandths of an inch of the armature plate? A few more things to what I have done. I have checked resistence. The magnets are working properly. The light on AWD switch on the handlebars lights up. Every part inside is cleaned each time I take it apart (probably 6 times and counting haha). I use all and only Pure Polaris products. The Armature plate has been replaced. The bearings do not look wore out, beaten up at all. The cage, rollers, and spring are perfectly clean, no nicks or scratches. The hub is put together correctly. Also, something very odd... When I had the quad jacked up and had it in 4x4, I had the tires off but the rest was put together, the wheels were spinning. If I kept on the throttle, the wheels were spinning, but hestitating a little. If I went to grab the wheel with my bare hands and hold it, that wheel would stop. I decided to put the tires on and take it for a ride in the mud. I went somewhere where I could test it but not get stuck luckily. One side (the left) kicked in for a max of 2 seconds, then gave out. Thats my story. Could anyone please give any suggestions, or advice of some sort. If possible, explain how these "demand drives" work. Please include your story about these drives and what you did to fix your 4x4. Thanks for all your help!
-Josh
'01 Xplorer 250 4x4
Slimed
Titan 489's
took the hub apart, replaced the boots. All Good? No way nothing comes good out of taking the hub apart I learned.
At First, both wheels locked in, giving me the four wheel drive. Then, one side stopped working. Then the other side gave out. We have tooken it apart many, many times to try different things that would be wrong with it. This hub is a modern version, so the people with a 05 06 its probably the same I would imagine. We put pure polaris demand drive oil into both hubs, filling it to 3 o'clock. The nut (soon as you take off the demand drive hub cap) I torqued down as tight as possible, then let off, so we could turn the wheel. Also I heard of a "sleeve" inside that needs to be within a thousandths of an inch of the armature plate? A few more things to what I have done. I have checked resistence. The magnets are working properly. The light on AWD switch on the handlebars lights up. Every part inside is cleaned each time I take it apart (probably 6 times and counting haha). I use all and only Pure Polaris products. The Armature plate has been replaced. The bearings do not look wore out, beaten up at all. The cage, rollers, and spring are perfectly clean, no nicks or scratches. The hub is put together correctly. Also, something very odd... When I had the quad jacked up and had it in 4x4, I had the tires off but the rest was put together, the wheels were spinning. If I kept on the throttle, the wheels were spinning, but hestitating a little. If I went to grab the wheel with my bare hands and hold it, that wheel would stop. I decided to put the tires on and take it for a ride in the mud. I went somewhere where I could test it but not get stuck luckily. One side (the left) kicked in for a max of 2 seconds, then gave out. Thats my story. Could anyone please give any suggestions, or advice of some sort. If possible, explain how these "demand drives" work. Please include your story about these drives and what you did to fix your 4x4. Thanks for all your help!
-Josh
'01 Xplorer 250 4x4
Slimed
Titan 489's
#2
First of all, I believe Polaris started using the On Demand Hub Fluid on their central hillard not the outside hubs. You said you filled each hub, if you had the central hub you would be filling just the central hillard gear case. I think you might be using the wrong fluid if you have the outboard hubs. I would flush out the fluid and put the hub correct fluid in. The Premium On Demand Hub Fluid is very thin and the fluid for the outside hubs is thicker like 90 weight. If it was modified and a 2005 or 2006 hillard was used, I don't know if it would ever work right with your 01. Good luck.
#3
You most likely bent the armature plates. all you do on the hubs is get em snugg while turning the wheel. then back em off a round or so. Then tighten to a max of 120 inch pounds. Just get it to where it the hub turns with slight resistance. You said you tightened the hub as tight as possible. There's your mistake most likely. The armature plate is that thin washer with the 3 tabs sticking out that rest in the hillard clutch. They are not too expensive. Less than 5 dollars each. Use the premium demand drive hub fluid. Its Green and comes in a little bottle. Can't remember the part # right off hand. Better check the bearings again when you take it apart. Make sure that when you cranked it down you didn't hurt them. Make sure you have the armature plate where the tabs are facing out. DO NOT face them in toward the strut. Bad day if you done that. You can screw up the coil and possibly have to replace the strut tower if was ridden any.
#4
All, by the way. The measurement you are refering to is the for the armature plate. The coil has a steel sleeve held on by that blue silicon over it. that sleeve has to be basiclly level with the sleeve under the coil. The steel sleeve on the outside is the only one that can be adjusted. Just take a straight edge and lay across it and make sure the two sleeves are level. If they are not, the armature plate will not be able to get a good grip when the coil is magnetised and let the clutch that locks your wheel in slip.
#5
On same subject I am just about to do alignment and reconnect the electrics after doing a reconstruction of the front suspension on my 1994 400 4x4 [I simply cut the wires to remove the strut assembly]
Have checked that I get 12 V from each side with switch on 4WD and also each hub give 30 ohms resistance
I was going to finally check it all works by jacking all wheel off ground and clicking from 2WD to 4WD, but not too sure that will tell me much because of this "demand" bit [which I dont fully understand]
what is recommended way to check if it is all working?? Previously I tended to have IN 4 WD all the time and I "imagined" it gave better stability, but sometimes "imagine" is not a good test
I really dont want to mess with the outside hub if I can avoid it, and there seems to be no play in it
any ideas or recommendations
Have checked that I get 12 V from each side with switch on 4WD and also each hub give 30 ohms resistance
I was going to finally check it all works by jacking all wheel off ground and clicking from 2WD to 4WD, but not too sure that will tell me much because of this "demand" bit [which I dont fully understand]
what is recommended way to check if it is all working?? Previously I tended to have IN 4 WD all the time and I "imagined" it gave better stability, but sometimes "imagine" is not a good test
I really dont want to mess with the outside hub if I can avoid it, and there seems to be no play in it
any ideas or recommendations
#6
Just jack it up, put it in AWD in forward gear and give it alittle gas, just enough to get the wheels to move. Once the rear wheels move 1/5 of a turn the front wheels will engage or should if it works correct
#7
OK thanks, so that's what I was sort of intending to do
so from what you say the demand gismo means in 4 wd position the front wheels are in fact free wheeling until the rear slips by 1/5 rev [72 deg] and then they lock in to take over the task from the rear
does that mean as soon as the rear stops slipping the front free wheels again? or does it stay locked in? - sorry to sound so dumb
so from what you say the demand gismo means in 4 wd position the front wheels are in fact free wheeling until the rear slips by 1/5 rev [72 deg] and then they lock in to take over the task from the rear
does that mean as soon as the rear stops slipping the front free wheels again? or does it stay locked in? - sorry to sound so dumb
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#8
Uhh.. None of that information really helped.
1. I tightened down the nut as tight as possible, then let off. As the dealership reccommended I do.
2. The armature plate was replaced as mentioned.
3.I would appriciate if people dont add in questions in this topic I really need this answered and and you have a problem, make a post. Thanks for understanding.
Still need all the help and suggestions I can get!
-Josh
1. I tightened down the nut as tight as possible, then let off. As the dealership reccommended I do.
2. The armature plate was replaced as mentioned.
3.I would appriciate if people dont add in questions in this topic I really need this answered and and you have a problem, make a post. Thanks for understanding.
Still need all the help and suggestions I can get!
-Josh
#9
sorry about adding a related topic but IMHO it is almost identical, ie I was considering taking it apart just to see how it all works but after your experience I think if it dont work in 4 WD I'll just use 2 WD
#10
its alright doc. its just people were answering your questions and many people are waiting for the answers I get off this post I just need it very soon. Its ok doc, no hard feelings.


