Miracle juice in an aerosol can .
#11
The best stuff I ever tryed was "Nut Cracker" it is an penatrating oil, it was made in Canada. I dont know where to find it, the shop I bought it from closed last year. A old mechanic I know uses hair spray, he said the acid in it would soak down the threads of any rusted bolt, he said you might have to soak it for a day or two.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Rick,
I discovered the secret when I was about 12, by accident, one day. Using a regular propane torch (the small hand-held kind with replaceable bottle) heat up the bolt. Get it hot but it doesn't need to be red hot. Then spray WD-40 on the bolt while it is still hot. The heat thins the oil and via what I assume is capillary action the heated oil is actually sucked into the threads. Give it a couple of minutes and then the nut should come right off.
Dave B
I discovered the secret when I was about 12, by accident, one day. Using a regular propane torch (the small hand-held kind with replaceable bottle) heat up the bolt. Get it hot but it doesn't need to be red hot. Then spray WD-40 on the bolt while it is still hot. The heat thins the oil and via what I assume is capillary action the heated oil is actually sucked into the threads. Give it a couple of minutes and then the nut should come right off.
Dave B
#14
#15
The Zep stuff is the best I have used so far. For really stubborn stuff, heat it up to the point where it will just 'smoke' a little when you spray the Zep (can't remember the exact name of it, just that is made by Zep). Give it a spritz once every 10 seconds or so until the bolt stays wet looking. Leave it alone a half hour and if anything will break it loose, that will.
If you are really good with a tortch, you can burn off a nut and leave the threads on a bolt undisturbed, even fine thread.
If you are really good with a tortch, you can burn off a nut and leave the threads on a bolt undisturbed, even fine thread.
#16
The B'laster catalyst is all that's allowed at work. We take tools that have been worked underwater in sea water and have rusted SOLID, soak them down with B'laster and they free up in a day or two. This is on some SERIOUS CORROSION. Divers don't baby tools, and sometimes they don't get cleaned in fresh water and lubricated right after they reach surface. This is the only thing we've found short of a torch to free things up. Even stainless steel bolts in aluminum exposed to sea water are no match fot this stuff.
#17
I use good ole M and M- Marvel's Mystery oil. Loosen a bolt, pour it in the gas,motor, whatever. Truly an amazing product that works for loosening bolts, making engines run better, etc.
Also, while shopping for something to clean the rust off my truck rims (chrome) I stumbled across something called "Rust Kutter". I applied it to my wheels and waited several hours and when I returned the rust was gone for the most part and the remainder could be wiped off with a towel! I had previously spent literally hours with an S.O.S. pad scrubbing which didn't work very well.I recommend "Rust Kutter" to anyone who wants to clean up some rust.I found it at Wal-Mart for a few bucks. I might take some photos of before and after since I have only one wheel done
Also, while shopping for something to clean the rust off my truck rims (chrome) I stumbled across something called "Rust Kutter". I applied it to my wheels and waited several hours and when I returned the rust was gone for the most part and the remainder could be wiped off with a towel! I had previously spent literally hours with an S.O.S. pad scrubbing which didn't work very well.I recommend "Rust Kutter" to anyone who wants to clean up some rust.I found it at Wal-Mart for a few bucks. I might take some photos of before and after since I have only one wheel done
#19
There's two penetrating oils that I found that haven't been mentioned: Kroil and Gibbs.
Kroil has been used around in industrial applications for years. It seems to work pretty well on anything rusty; it just takes awhile to penetrate. It comes in aerosol or one gallon cans, and can be ordered from the back of most guy magazines, like Popular Mechanics.
Gibbs is really impressive. We save it for really tough applications like rusted roller chain. On the farm, certain chains on equipment are exposed to fertilizers, etc., and are left to set outdoors until the next season. Just spray on some Gibbs, and start moving it back and forth. The bad thing, is that it is about $8 a can, and nearly impossible to find.
Kroil has been used around in industrial applications for years. It seems to work pretty well on anything rusty; it just takes awhile to penetrate. It comes in aerosol or one gallon cans, and can be ordered from the back of most guy magazines, like Popular Mechanics.
Gibbs is really impressive. We save it for really tough applications like rusted roller chain. On the farm, certain chains on equipment are exposed to fertilizers, etc., and are left to set outdoors until the next season. Just spray on some Gibbs, and start moving it back and forth. The bad thing, is that it is about $8 a can, and nearly impossible to find.
#20
Rick, The best thing I ever used is PB Blaster. Like the others have mentioned. It's about 5 bucks a can and works great. My dad used to in junk yard business and I would use it to free rusted bolts on junk cars. Out of all the ones I have tried this one is by far the best. If blaster doesn't work, then you need the Fire wrench.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mason1987
General Chat
1
06-15-2015 09:15 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)