Hi everyone,

I purchased a 95 Scrambler last year but it did not come with a manual. I would like to know if someone could answer a few questions for me.

1. - a few weeks ago, I broke my rear chain. I looked at it and I think it was the original chain from 95, so I bought a new one. My new one is obviously tighter than the old one and I cannot quite get it to connect. I was going to loosen the rear axle, attach the new chain and adjust it, but I do not know where the chain tightener is on my Scrambler? I have an older Polaris and the chain tightener is right on the bottom of the rear axle, but my 95 doesn't have this?

2. - my left front hub was leaking, so I bought new seals and replaced them. I replaced the inner seal and the outer "O" ring seal. Even though the seals have been replaced, the hub still leaks. Any ideas why?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the questions.

 

There are 2 pretty good size bolts on the end of the trailing arm that clamp the rear axle bearing carrier. Those will need to be loosened, to allow that entire bearing carrier to be turned. A close look will show that the axle is offset in that carrier, and turning the carrier one way or the other will tighten/loosen the chain.

There are 2 inner seals. The one that you're probably after fits into the back side of the strut/nearest the c/v joint.

 

Thanks ahicks! I will get it fixed tomorrow. I appreciate your help.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: ahicks


There are 2 inner seals. The one that you're probably after fits into the back side of the strut/nearest the c/v joint.</end quote></div>

The seal you are talking about, does it have a metal outer ring with a seal inside? I changed that one before too and it still leaks if I leave it sit.

 

Check out number 23 in the link below. Yes, metal on the outside, neoprene or whatever inner. If you've replaced that seal and it's still leaking, maybe the part it seals against is rusted/nicked or something? That was the issue with mine. Previous owner nicked that surface reassembling, I carefully filed the rough edge down and it hasn't leaked since. A few other ideas - Maybe you damaged (nicked/bent) the new seal installing it? Seal not seated properly? A stick or something lodged in a manner that won't let it seal? In any case, I'd get another seal, pull it down, try again. I know how frustrating that leak is, and worrying if the hub has enough lube in it all the time. Good luck, -Al

http://www.partsland.com/index...4-FRONT-STRUT-ASSEMBLY

 

Yep, #23 is it - I replaced that bad boy already. I will do as you suggested though - I will pull off the hub again and check the surface to see if anything is there that would prevent the seal from sealing. I appreciate your suggestions and your help.

 

if i'm thinking right you also have to loosen one of the bolts holding the brake caliper

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: deanz400

if i'm thinking right you also have to loosen one of the bolts holding the brake caliper</end quote></div>

Can you explain a little more? What will that do for me?

 

basically if the design hasn't changed much ,the 2 big bolts are your main Hub holding bolts , and the one bolt on the brakes just needs to be loosened so the hub can turn,the reason the hob needs to be able to turn is it's got a off center to it,so once the bolts are loose when you spin the hub it will eith loosen or tighten your chain ,
a little trick I learned is to jack up the rear and put apunch or screw driver in the side and just spin the wheels and it will turn the hub .hope this helps.

 

&lt;&lt;&lt;a little trick I learned is to jack up the rear and put apunch or screw driver in the side and just spin the wheels and it will turn the hub &gt;&gt;&gt;

Been doin my own wrenching since I was old enough to drive (40+ years) - and still learning. Great idea. Beats the heck out of diggin around looking for something big enough to turn that carrier......... Thanks, -Al

Just thought of something else too, but maybe you already know this. The non-concentric drive machine rear chains runs pretty loose when there is no weight on the machine. Too tight can break chains/transmission output shafts. You need to compress the rear suspension to the point where the trailing arm is level with the ground. (big friend? ratchet strap?) prior to checking tension/adjusting the chain. The chain tightens as the suspension collapses (the reason it's called non-concentric).