I'm in the process of rebuilding a Hawkeye for my cousin, and I'm having a hard time understand this thing. It's my first rebuild on a utility ATV, so give me a little slack. I've gotten all of the way to the top of the motor, and I'm ready to start going into it. I have no problem with taking it apart, as it looks fairly simple, I just need to know how to find TDC on this thing. I can't find any timing marks anywhere. I've worked on quads, which have timing marks on the flywheel side of the motor, but I can't seem to find anything on this one. Also, what are the specs for the valve clearences?

I really would like to have a manual on this thing, so if anyone has one and may be able to send it to me, or knows where I could find one, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance...

 

you should buy a repair manual for it if you want to make the job go faster

 

This is from an '07 manual.

"In order to time the camshaft to the crankshaft, the piston must be precisely located at TDC. If flywheel key, and flywheel are not installed, install them at this time. The recoil housing must be temporarily installed to use the timing inspection hole.

1. Rotate the crankshaft until the "T" TDC timing mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark in the timing inspection window of the recoil housing. Do not use any advance timing marks.

2. Simply talks about lubing all the parts.

3. Orient the camshaft with the lobes facing downward and install the cam into the cylinder head.

4. Nothing important

5. Be sure the pin in the camshaft is pointing DOWN.

6. Loop the cam chain over the sprocket, and shift the chain on the sprocket until it can be installed onto the camshaft.

7. VERIFY the following:

"T" Mark on flywheel is aligned with the projection in the timing hole of the recoil housing.

The mark on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the projection in the camshaft cover window.

8. Verify all marks are aligned. Install the cam sprocket bolt, and torque to specification. (35.5-50 ft. lbs.)

Both the intake and exhaust valves are set to .006".

Hope this helps you somehow.

 

Thanks a lot 00XJ, that information helps me out A LOT. Can you also tell me what the torque settings are for the head and cylinder bolts? Also, which way are the end gaps of the rings supposed to be faced when installing the cylinder? I know the end gaps are pretty much supposed to be opposite of each other, but some engines are picky as to which way the end gaps are facing. I might be able to figure this out when I pull the cylinder, but I figured I'd go ahead and ask.

Is it ok if I post back here if I have anymore questions? Thanks so much for you help, I might be able to get this thing finished with now!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: OneCar60Mexicans

Thanks a lot 00XJ, that information helps me out A LOT. Can you also tell me what the torque settings are for the head and cylinder bolts? Also, which way are the end gaps of the rings supposed to be faced when installing the cylinder? I know the end gaps are pretty much supposed to be opposite of each other, but some engines are picky as to which way the end gaps are facing. I might be able to figure this out when I pull the cylinder, but I figured I'd go ahead and ask.



Is it ok if I post back here if I have anymore questions? Thanks so much for you help, I might be able to get this thing finished with now!</end quote></div>


Cylinder torque is as follows,

Tighten M10 bolts to 18.5 ft lbs. Loosen 180 degrees. Tighten to 11 ft lbs. Tighten M10 bolts 90 degrees. Tighten M10 bolts another 60 degrees. Tighten 6mm bolts to 8 ft lbs.

Here is the pattern they need to be tightened in,


Up here is the front on the engine. 1-4 is the 10mm, 5-6 are the 6mm.

3 2 5

1 4 6


Oil control ring expander end gap facing forward, towards the exhaust I assume. The upper and lower oil ring rail should be 30* from the endgap of the expander 30* in opposite directions.

The second ring, I'm assuming the lower ring with the endgap towards the intake side. The top ring has no reference as to which direction the endgap should be. The upper and lower rings have a mark on them, and they should face up.

IMO that's what these forums are really all about helping out each other. For instance, I gleened alot of info about my Jeep on JeepForum.com. Glad to help!

 

Ok, I'm finished with the teardown, now it's time to order parts and rebuild it.

The problem with it before I started, was that the oil plug fell out of it, and my cousin rode it around until it lost most of the oil, overheated, and shut off. Now, I thought the motor would be locked up, but the crank/rod and bottom end of the motor are in really good shape. I guess it had enough oil left in to keep everything lubricated in the bottom. As for the piston/cylinder, it's a different story. The pin was seized to the rod, which kept the piston from "swinging" on the rod. I had to knock the pin out of the piston with a hammer and a small steel pipe. Also, the rings were pretty much scorched and "welded" themselves to the piston. From the piston not being able to swing back and forth on the rod and staying in one location caused the piston to scratch up the cylinder walls pretty bad. Looks like it just needs to be bored out to get rid of the deep scratches, and to get an oversized piston to match the bore, and it should be back up and running.

Thanks for you help so far man, I'm sure I'll be back for more as soon as the parts come in.

If you need to ask me anything while I'm in the motor, ask away, I'll be glad to answer any questions.

 

Well, finally got around to getting this thing back together. The rebuild went pretty smooth, for the most part. It started up and ran ok, but when I would give it gas, it would start to bog down, and eventually cut off. I thought it might have been the timing, so I took the head cover back off and made sure the timing was correct, and it seemed perfect. After doing that, I took the carb off and cleaned it. Put it all back together, and it ran again, but bogged down when I gave it gas. Now, when I try to start it, the starter will spin the motor over for about 3 seconds, then it sounds like the started it spinning freely. I have no idea what is going on. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

WOW a 06 needs a rebiuld already? Our 97 SP500 with 7000 miles has not been touched yet.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: TLC

WOW a 06 needs a rebiuld already? Our 97 SP500 with 7000 miles has not been touched yet.</end quote></div>

The oil drain plug fell out, they don't run to long without oil......

 

is it getting good fire still? getting gas did you try choking it to see if it wasnt getting enough gas or too much by killing the engine?