what holds the clutch from spinning on the crank?
#1
Hello everyone,I am new to Polaris' and to to posting on forums so Please bear with me if Im illiterate and dont know all the right ways of doing things.
My problem is I just purchased a 1996 Scrambler 400 4x4 and it rode fine as far as I knew or could tell.First I test rode it and it was fine then I rode it kinda hard for about 3-4 hours and rode it up the ramps into the truck and everything was fine however I did notice a little noise coming from the clutch area at idle. Then I took it out of the truck a few days later and it would not move a bit. I removed the clutch cover and it appears to me that the clutch is spinning around the crank so I removed it expecting to see a half moon key or somthing like that sheared off but it doesnt even look like it was supposed to have anything like that.The clutch was a sloppy fit around the crank also,seems like there is somthing missing or somthing. Can someone clue me in as to whats going on here? Im pretty mechanically inclined but this one throws me off. I have a Haynes manual coming and it should be here soon so Im hoping it will shed some light.
My last question is do you think it was doctored up to sell to me or did I do it from riding it or does this just happen somtimes or was it maybe from having it in gear while hauling it. Thanks for any replies cause Im stumped guys help me out. Shawn
My problem is I just purchased a 1996 Scrambler 400 4x4 and it rode fine as far as I knew or could tell.First I test rode it and it was fine then I rode it kinda hard for about 3-4 hours and rode it up the ramps into the truck and everything was fine however I did notice a little noise coming from the clutch area at idle. Then I took it out of the truck a few days later and it would not move a bit. I removed the clutch cover and it appears to me that the clutch is spinning around the crank so I removed it expecting to see a half moon key or somthing like that sheared off but it doesnt even look like it was supposed to have anything like that.The clutch was a sloppy fit around the crank also,seems like there is somthing missing or somthing. Can someone clue me in as to whats going on here? Im pretty mechanically inclined but this one throws me off. I have a Haynes manual coming and it should be here soon so Im hoping it will shed some light.
My last question is do you think it was doctored up to sell to me or did I do it from riding it or does this just happen somtimes or was it maybe from having it in gear while hauling it. Thanks for any replies cause Im stumped guys help me out. Shawn
#2
welocme to the forums. the clutch is on a taper which if you notice on your crank its a taper end. so when you put the clutch on and torque it to about 50 ft. .lbs that is what holds on the clutch. was the clutch bolt on tight or is it broke? the rattling you heard might be the spider buttons worn.
#3
Thanks for the reply. Well the thing is that he bolt was very tight (had to use the impact to remove it) but even with it tight it would spin and was pretty loose. So the taper is the only thing that holds it huh? I will go back out there and see if there is some reason that would cause it not to be tightening down onto the taper. Thanks again for the reply
#4
#5
OK,Thanks a lot Scootergptx.That site looks a lot like bikebandit.com. I went back out and run a tap thru it to clean the crank hole and put it back on real tight and it now works again but it seams that it is pulled back too far and it ever so slightly rubs on the fins on the back of the clutch so I am wondering if maybe I could have tightened it too much. I am still hearing the noises coming from it at idle but as soon as I give it gas it goes away.I guess the cause of that is the spider buttons but what exactly is that? Would the clutch off of another year or model fit on this or how hard and what parts should I get to rebuild it. Thanks again guys Shawn
#6
Any non EBS clutch will work.You would have to use the correct size of weights and correct spring.Sounds like the bushings in the clutch have gone south. Cheapest way is to go on Ebay and find a late model clutch and try to use your weights and spring.If they are not useable find a good set of S55 weights and either a Polaris white or green spring or there aftermarket match.
#7
OK,Thanks for the info.That help a lot. So I have found one off of a 97 Magnum 425 2x4 on ebay that I would be able to get the drive and the driven clutches for pretty cheap I think. I figured that if I could I should get both since the driven has a little play in it also. Will they work? Will I need any special tools to change the weights and spring or is it possible to do without them?
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#8
first thing you should do is find out why the cluttch is rubbing? you only put them on w/ about 50 ft lb of torque. did you crack the the taper on the clutch from overtighting it? like was said you'll have to replace spring and weights and if you got a secondary(which you probably dont need) you would have to rreplace maybe spring and helix. just rebuild the secondary w/ new parts if it needs it.
#9
Get you a front clutch puller they arent very expensive and you will use it more than you think.
The older belt covers warp real bad so you probbly need a new outer cover.this why most rub.
The older belt covers warp real bad so you probbly need a new outer cover.this why most rub.
#10
Ok,Ill get a front puller also.I noticed that they have two piece ones for cheaper than the one piece ones. Are there any difference? Actually the clutch is rubbing on the back between the clutch and the engine. The reason I thought the driven cluthc was messed up is because When I move it from side to side I can see movement between the clutch and the bolt head-would that be bushings or somthing? So are you saying that I shouldnt get the driven one because if its messed up I should put new parts on the one Ive got? Thanks for the help on this guys.






