i think they stole your idea sheep

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: TLC

ADC is all wheel engine braking,not welcomed on fast gravel road curvy rinding so I guess it has a turn off feature.</end quote></div>


If I am not mistaken the ADC doesn't work off of engine braking like the EBS, it uses clutches in the front differential I believe. The switch is for turning ADC on or off. While coasting down a steep hill I can turn on the ADC and the ATV will pretty much stop, it feels like when you apply the brakes pretty much.

 

High Octane, you're right, ADC and EBS are totally separate functions.

 

adc only works while locked into awd and the switch (like the 08's) in the awd/adc position. acd(sheep had a real good post awile ago about it if you search) and explained it in detail but only the ebs is the primary clutch bushing that works it and nothing else.

 

Here's the description for EBS from the service manual"

When the ATV is moving downhill the drive train turns the driven clutch, belt, and one way clutch in the direction of engine rotation. When the one-way clutch exceeds the drive clutch rotational speed, the one-way clutch locks to the drive clutch shaft and engine braking occurs. Essentially the driven clutch has become the "driving" clutch.............Engine braking continues until the drive clutch speed exceeds the one-way clutch speed, or until the throttle is applied and the engine reaches clutch engagement speed, lifting the belt off of the one-way clutch.

Here is the description for ADC from the service manual:

When the AWD switch is activated, a 12 Vdc current is present at the input shaft coil. Operation is controlled by the ECU grounding and ungroundng the coil. The coil's magnetic field attracts a splined armature plate on the pinion shaft. The energized splined armature plate attracts the unsplined eccentric cam, which begins to turn with the input shaft. The eccentric cam drives a hydraulic piston/pump assembly. The pressure created by the pump assembly forces hydraulic fluid through passages to the piston assemblies located in each case half. Hydraulic pressure forces the piston assemblies inward to compress the splined clutch packs forming a dynamic coupling to each front drive axle, resulting in true all-wheel EBS operation upon decelleration.

The below thread has a discussion on ADC as well as pics from a mod I did to add an ADC on/off switch to my ATV.

http://forums.atvconnection.co...R_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear


Now here's my full understanding of EBS and ADC:

EBS applies to the rear wheels only, and will only function until the ATV has slowed down enough for the "Engine braking continues until the drive clutch speed exceeds the one-way clutch speed". Once this happens, the ATV will coast, albeit at a very slow speed (1 or 2 mph).

ADC applies to the front wheels only, and will attempt to lock the front axles to the driveshaft. Being that the gear ratio for the front wheels is 20% higher than for the rear wheels, the resulting friction (generated by the difference in wheel speed from front to rear) between the tires and the ground will force the ATV to a stop. For instance, for every 5 complete turns of the rear wheels, the front wheels only do 4 turns (when in AWD). Since the front wheels turn slower than the rears when the front differential is engaged/locked, and ADC tries to lock the front wheels to the rear, as soon as enough pressure is applied through the ADC system and the front wheels start driving slower than the rear, a braking effect occurs and the ATV will come to a stop, even on a downhill. EBS alone will not hold the ATV stopped on a downhill.

That's the best I can do for tonight. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

That was a great explanation. I was only given the "dumb guy's" explanation: ADC is like an electric brake on the front wheels.

Most of us knew EBS only works on the rear wheels, but that's not good enough for some people. Now with ADC it works more like 4-wheel EBS, even though it's actually not.

 

I like the "electric brake" description.

I still have to take and post some videos of ADC actually stopping the ATV on a downhill, versus EBS alone that will just let keep going.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: stendori

the primary clutch has a one way bushing in the center of the 2 sheeves. unlike a non ebs smooth center piece(hence the non grooved belt). the bushing keeps the belt tight on it and will slow the belt down w/ the engines rpms that drop. its kinda really no more then a friction tpye base set up and the engine copression really has no more then a normal engine breaking to slow it down. it really doesnt have any thing to do w/ performance as well as its nothing to do w/ the engine/ this is only my take opinon on it.</end quote></div>

OK, so the primary clutch and the belt combination are big factors in the engine braking then. Is it that this system just has more grip on the belt and also never lets go of it?... Or is it that the primary still lets go of the belt, but it's tight wrapped around that center one way bushing?

I'm thinking it's the second?

If this is the case, the bottom line is that no matter what changes you make to the clutching.... without the EBS primary, you're still not going to get that low speed bottom RPM engine braking effect.... right?.... The belt will disengage or slip around the non-ebs primary.... right?

 

duster, that is correct. the belt on the bushing is the key for when the clutch is disengaged.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: stendori

duster, that is correct. the belt on the bushing is the key for when the clutch is disengaged.</end quote></div>

Cool... I finally learned something!!!

Now... let me see if I can get one step farther....

Suppose I install a Team/roller secondary...
Now I have more instant "shift" response out of the secondary... right?
It finds the right gear ratio faster as you get in and out of the throttle... right?

So now I would have more effective engine braking performance over my stock PVT.... to the limit of what my stock primary can do to keep the belt from slipping... and to the point where the primary actually disengages the belt...

So my quad might slow down better/faster when I let out of the throttle, but down on the real low end... I'm still not crawling down a hill.



Now, I guess the real question is, if I were to add EBS, just how much compression braking could I really get out of my 2-stroke? Can I extract $500 +/- of performance out of my high range trans and 400cc 2-stroke?..... I dunno...

http://www.purepolaris.com/Det...52(PolarisPGACatalog)


I bet someone tried it on an old Xplorer 400....