Remembering last years lively discussions on frozen choke cables on Honda 450ES models and throttle cables on Xplorer 400 models...

I was wondering if the new choke cable on the 2001 Sportsman 500 is "frost proof", since it is the same design as the Honda 450ES and the Rubicon.

I know the Xplorers got a little better in 1999 but haven't heard anything about the 2000 or 2001 models. Did they finally get the problem solved?

 

Any tips for us with old polaris's that have frozen cable problems? I use my 89, 250 4x4 everyday here on the farm and have had trouble since it got cold. Usaly it sticks in the open position, after I was sick and it sat for 3 days it stuck closed and I couldnt get it off idle until the engine warmed it up. I keep thawing it out and work WD-40 down the cable, It freezes less often now but is still anoying and unsafe.

 

Route the cable as far away from all heat sources as possible.

(You want to reduce the condensation factor within the cable while the machine is cooling down)

If you can't re-route the cable, increase the amount of insulation over the cable(s) where it comes into contact with all hot surfaces.

Follow the oil cable down to the pump on the engine and carefully remove the cover (gasket involved). Chances are, you will find frost and ice under the cover which must be dried out. (forced hot air). This is also the time to warm up the cables and evaporate any moisture which may still be in them.

While the cover is off try lubricating the cable with the WD-40 again or the Polaris cable lube.

Sometimes water also collects at the oil cable/throttle cable junction. Dry this area out also and inject some more cable lube here.

Depending upon where the quad is parked two emergency starting procedures can be used.

A hairdryer on the oil pump/cable, or pouring a pan of hot water over the cables after you take off the seat. These quick fixes will get you going again but will not eliminate the freezing of the cables. Removing the oil pump cover is the only reliable way of removing condensation that I know of. Good luck

 

This may sound obvious, but try snowmobile cable lube. It is slicker in extreme cold and seems to help the freezing thing much better than wd-40. My brother got some about 3 years ago (from where I don't know - can't even remember what brand it was) and we lube the cables good in the fall, and have very little trouble. If the cable does freeze, the next warm day (over 40) when we think of it, we re-lube the cable. Usually 2 times will last all winter. The most important places to lube the throttle is right by the control (be sure it gets past the adjuster), where the 2 cables join the one, and right above the carb.
What sucks is the choke cable because to lube it 'right' requires taking apart the handlebar pod. Again, don't forget to lube it where it meets the carb.

For summer we use the regular cable lube, as we are not sure how well lube designed for below zero works when it is 100 out.
It seems like a lot of work, but you usually only have to lube them 3 or 4 times a year.