I am replacing the gearside rear axle cv boot I have removed the axle and was hoping someone could give me step by step instructions from here out.
thank

 

I just did this on the front on a magnum 500. I dont know if its the same thing but this is what I did.

cut the old boot and bands off.
separate the cv joint
clean the cv joint in a parts washer
dry with compressed air
slide the boot ove the small end
reassemble the joint fill with the appropriate amount of grease
band, it has to be tight enough to not let the boot slip but not too tight to damage the boot. (this was the part that gave me fits)

and if you do it like I did you will do this a couple of times because you have to tear a boot and screw up one of the bands.

I dont know if this will help at all but really other than the boot it was really pretty easy.

good luck!

 

http://www.atvfrontier.com/Kno.../op=show/kid=114.html

A fairly common occurrence with any ATV with CV joints is boot replacement. Sooner or later, it seems, something snags the boot and tears it. Replacement is something most people can do themselves with the proper tools & instruction. About the only specialty tools you may need are CV clamp pliers, and in some cases, snap ring pliers (available at almost any auto parts store).

First, remove whatever is in the way of your being able to access the CV joint. This includes the wheel, CV joint guard, and in the case of the front joint, the brake caliper. Hang the caliper by a piece of wire or twine, so as not to stretch or kink the hose. Clean everything up as good as you can, and loosen the clamps. Now you need to separate the joint.

For the FRONT, you need to either separate the ball joint from the bottom of the strut, or remove the 2 bolts that attach the A-arm to the frame. Now you will need to separate the axle shaft from the joint. With a soft face hammer (or a piece of wood between a regular hammer-don't damage the aluminum of the strut) rap sharply OUTWARDLY to pull the joint out of the axle. It is held in only with a spring-loaded clip. The clip can be tough, and usually when a person is just about to give up, and hits it one last time, it comes apart. Now inspect the joint. If it is NOT contaminated, simply remove the boot, re-grease the joint, slide the boot up the axle, and re-connect the joint to the axle. You may need to rotate the rear wheels in order to make the axle line up with the splines. The end of the axle is tapered enough so that the end will just wedge itself past the spring clip. When it is together, verify the clip locked by tugging gently outwardly. The clip should prevent it from separating. Now add some grease to the inside of the boot, and slide it in place, and clamp it down. It is easier to get into place if you have the rear wheels in the air, so you can rotate the axle as you work the boot in place around the joint. Re-assemble everything in reverse order. If the CV joint has been contaminated, you need to take the hub apart to get the joint & axle stub out. Then clean in a parts cleaner, pack the CV joint with joint grease, re-assemble the hub as it came apart, torqueing the axle nut to 110-125 INCH pounds.

For the REAR joints on the Sportsman machines, there is a slightly different technique. You will need to take the A-arm bolts out of the hub by the wheel in order to separate the joints. The rear joints come apart differently than the front ones do. To get them apart, loosen the clamps, and slide the boot back away from the joint. Take a clean rag, and carefully wipe away the grease. There will be a little recess where a snap ring sits, with the ends pointing away from the joint. Pry them APART to pull the axle from the joint. To get the axle back into the joint, the end of the shaft is tapered, so it should go back together with a light rap once the splines are aligned. Again, if the joint shows no sign of contamination, simply pack with new grease, slide the new boot up the axle, re-connect the axle to the joint, slide the boot over it, and re-clamp.

If the joint is contaminated, you need to get the joint out to clean it up. You remove the axle nut on the hub to get the outside one out, and the inboard CV joint is held into place with a spring loaded clip. The axle nut is a lot easier to remove if you break it loose before you separate the joint, and use your parking brake to hold the axle from turning. The inboard joint is removed by pulling sharply on the joint to overcome the force of the clip. Again, there is enough taper to things that all shafts should be able to be re-assembled with just a rap with the butt of your hand. Everything else re-assembles just the way it came apart.
Remember to replace any spring clips or snap rings that look at all questionable. Also remember that about half the grease in the kit gets packed into the joint, and the other half goes into the boot before assembly.

Replacing ANY of these joints is made a whole lot easier if you have access to an ATV jack that can lift all 4 wheels in the air at the same time.



CV Boot kit 6-1052 , replaces Alloy boot 10017K for $9.45.
The rears are more closely matched to the NAPA # 686-2151 ($12) or crossed Precision # 7427.


*The boot is not an exact fit but will work, the dog-ear crimp style clamps cannot be used on the outers as there is not enough clearance & they will rub the strut housing.

2002 sp700 Polaris Part Number # 2201015 KIT,BOOT REPLACEMENT $29.99

http://s4.photobucket.com/albu...jimmypsp700/CV%20boot/ -CV boot install picts.