WINCH QUESTIONS
#31
I cut off the end that came on the line and wrapped it in electrical tape. I then fed the line through pulled slack and tied a good small knot. I feel like if you keep enough rounds on the spool this should be just fine. I reckin time will tell though!
#32
I didn't thread the rope back through the drum after wrapping the puck. Just enough to wrap it back on itself and push it back into the wider hole on the drum. I pulled the rope on the other side and it snugged it right up.
The picture in that pdf I linked to shows it perfectly.
The picture in that pdf I linked to shows it perfectly.
#35
Always remember to keep at least 3-4 wraps of rope on the drum. It keeps the weight off the puck/knot/eye/whatever. And winches work better with only one layer of rope on the drum. The more layers on the drum, the larger the effective diameter is, and the less it can pull.
#36
I have the amsteel blue winch line on my polaris 550xp, and I use a roller fairlead, cause of the down pressure the line has when raising and lowering the plow, and will use a non roller fairlead when not plowing, its just two bolts to take fairlead off. I am having some trouble with the not that makes the hook, is there any other way to make a good soild hook for the thimble?
#38
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: jumbofrank
Hawes fairleads used to be standard on almost all winches. Rollers were an add-on that costed more. I just checked some prices online. Some of the rollers are more than double the price of a hawes for the same winch.</end quote></div>
No, The hawse fairlead is aluminum one, not steel one. So it is not a standard on.
Hawes fairleads used to be standard on almost all winches. Rollers were an add-on that costed more. I just checked some prices online. Some of the rollers are more than double the price of a hawes for the same winch.</end quote></div>
No, The hawse fairlead is aluminum one, not steel one. So it is not a standard on.
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