09 850 XP
#41
10-03-2008, 02:49 PM
Extreme Pro Rider
Mopar Man!
Mopar Man!
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#42
10-03-2008, 04:10 PM
09 850 XP
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: DODGE57HEMI
Here you go!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doqe-bfxEc4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...62m5ko&feature=related</end quote></div>
OUTSTANDING and INSANE! LOL!!
Thanks[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Here you go!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doqe-bfxEc4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...62m5ko&feature=related</end quote></div>
OUTSTANDING and INSANE! LOL!!
Thanks[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#43
10-03-2008, 04:34 PM
09 850 XP
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: H20
Has anyone ridden the new 09 850 XP??</end quote></div>
Good question! I would like to hear about it also...
Plus...there is a short ride with the XP 850 from ATVTV.com. They have some really great reviews on a lot of ATV's...
www.atvtv.com
biz
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Has anyone ridden the new 09 850 XP??</end quote></div>
Good question! I would like to hear about it also...
Plus...there is a short ride with the XP 850 from ATVTV.com. They have some really great reviews on a lot of ATV's...
www.atvtv.com
biz
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#44
10-04-2008, 06:44 AM
09 850 XP
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: GunnSmokesecond... complex carburetor??? can you tear down a efi system, clean it up easier than a carb??? doubt it.</end quote></div>
Yes in my opinion a carb is more complex than an EFI system. With a carb you have all sorts of moving parts, tons of fiddly adjustments to be made, small parts to lose or bend when you're rebuilding one. They tend to go out of adjustment and have to be messed with to keep them tuned up. I hate that.
An EFI has far fewer moving parts. Perhaps the throttle position sensor and a butterfly valve. I'm not even sure if you could even consider an injector a moving part. It constantly adjusts fuel air mixture and the various settings to wring every last ounce of power and mileage out of the engine and keep it running at an optimum level. It can make extremely precise adjustments and do so essentially instantaneously. A carb simply can't do this.
The system is fairly simple and any sort of malfunction throws codes which more or less tell you what the problem is. I'd much rather troubleshoot an EFI with a multimeter than mess around fiddling with a carb screwing around with jets, bending floats just so, fooling with springs and needles and chasing little screw and screws all over the shop floor. I absolutely hate fussing around with a carb. To me, a code reader, a multimeter and a shop manual which shows the correct information and troubleshooting procedures is far easier than dealing with a carb. I'd prefer doing that any day when compered with cleaning and rebuilding a carb and spending all sorts of time fussing and messing around tuning it just so, riding it around and then bringing back in the shop to fiddle around with it again because it is too rich or too lean or idles wrong. bah. Makes me frustrated just writing about it let alone doing it. lol
Yes in my opinion a carb is more complex than an EFI system. With a carb you have all sorts of moving parts, tons of fiddly adjustments to be made, small parts to lose or bend when you're rebuilding one. They tend to go out of adjustment and have to be messed with to keep them tuned up. I hate that.
An EFI has far fewer moving parts. Perhaps the throttle position sensor and a butterfly valve. I'm not even sure if you could even consider an injector a moving part. It constantly adjusts fuel air mixture and the various settings to wring every last ounce of power and mileage out of the engine and keep it running at an optimum level. It can make extremely precise adjustments and do so essentially instantaneously. A carb simply can't do this.
The system is fairly simple and any sort of malfunction throws codes which more or less tell you what the problem is. I'd much rather troubleshoot an EFI with a multimeter than mess around fiddling with a carb screwing around with jets, bending floats just so, fooling with springs and needles and chasing little screw and screws all over the shop floor. I absolutely hate fussing around with a carb. To me, a code reader, a multimeter and a shop manual which shows the correct information and troubleshooting procedures is far easier than dealing with a carb. I'd prefer doing that any day when compered with cleaning and rebuilding a carb and spending all sorts of time fussing and messing around tuning it just so, riding it around and then bringing back in the shop to fiddle around with it again because it is too rich or too lean or idles wrong. bah. Makes me frustrated just writing about it let alone doing it. lol
#45
10-04-2008, 03:41 PM
09 850 XP
Carbs <u>are</u> complicated. I had a 4-barrel carb rebuilt several times by a couple of local carburetor shops and I never could get my van running right. I even had to drive with the engine cover off and a can of starting fluid in my right hand all the way home from work once. I haven't had a problem in 11 years since I switched to EFI in two trucks. I think EFI should be just as good in an ATV and carbs still suck no matter what they're on.
#46
03-04-2009, 02:42 PM
09 850 XP
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Spdecat
I e-mailed NGK here's what I got back
Hello,
Looking through Champ catalog I see that
R= resistor
E= 14mm diameter with a 1" reach (25mm)
A= does not show
6= heat range equivalent to 8 in NGK
M=projected tip
C=copper plus design
Based off this the closest NGK equivalent is the iridium IX series
LTR7IX-11 stock# 6510 which is a hotter heat range than required. So
unless fouling is an issue I would suggest using the Champion plug as we
unfortunately don't have the correct equivalent. Hope this helps, thank
you.
Best regards,</end quote></div>
back from the dead..lol..
Thought we might have had something here..since a few guys are having fouling problems and Polaris came out with a hotter plug this would fit the bill for an alternate... EXCEPT the correct plug is a 12mm diameter with a 14mm hex!! Nothing even close from NGK..dang it..got my hopes up..lol
I e-mailed NGK here's what I got back
Hello,
Looking through Champ catalog I see that
R= resistor
E= 14mm diameter with a 1" reach (25mm)
A= does not show
6= heat range equivalent to 8 in NGK
M=projected tip
C=copper plus design
Based off this the closest NGK equivalent is the iridium IX series
LTR7IX-11 stock# 6510 which is a hotter heat range than required. So
unless fouling is an issue I would suggest using the Champion plug as we
unfortunately don't have the correct equivalent. Hope this helps, thank
you.
Best regards,</end quote></div>
back from the dead..lol..
Thought we might have had something here..since a few guys are having fouling problems and Polaris came out with a hotter plug this would fit the bill for an alternate... EXCEPT the correct plug is a 12mm diameter with a 14mm hex!! Nothing even close from NGK..dang it..got my hopes up..lol
